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10.05.2021
The Plane Facts: The #5 Jack Plane - Woodworking Blog

We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. However, jiinter does not impact our recommendations. Years ago I got a phone call from plane maker Larry Williams that changed the way I look at long planes. I sure did. I had rescued a damaged one that my company was throwing away back in when the book came out. Then he was silent. I looked at the photo at the top of page for a good 20 seconds before it dawned on me.

The enormous wooden jointer plane on that page had an iron that was low angle jointer plane review key high. Way high. And it turns out that Larry was wrong. This is plaen lunacy. Joesph Moxona 17th-century chronicler of the art of joinerydiscusses how high-pitched planes can be used for hard woods.

Why use a high-angle plane? To reduce tear-out on your show surfaces, primarily. But why have a high-angle try or jointer plane? Why not just use a high-angle smoothing plane? After all, a smoothing plane is kry last plane to touch the lod, and its most important job is to make the wood look its best. Deneb Puchalski of Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and I had a conversation about this topic today to compare notes.

It was interesting to note how our experiences and feelings about jointr overlapped, despite the fact that our planing methods are different. In other words, as soon as you get tear-out on a board, you should switch gears to eliminate it immediately. That might mean reducing the depth of cut, sharpening the iron or tightening the rsview both Deneb and I do this. It might low angle jointer plane review key switching plans Deneb uses a plane with a toothed iron.

It might mean skewing the toolDeneb will try to plane the wood obliquely. Me, I tend to traverse a board that is tearing outworking directly across the grain. Any of these strategies can wipe out the tearing. Then you can move onto a high-angle smoothing plane with a clean, flat and tear-out-free slate. The other option when you are getting into tough wood is simply to start with a high-angle jointer plane. Using a high-angle jointer or try plane can start the process on the right foot.

A couple other details revieq this are worth mentioning. Deneb reports that planes with more mass seem to deal with difficult woods better than lighter planes. Also, when you use a higher-pitch jointer you should back off on olw depth of your cut a bit, which also helps to control tearing.

And it makes the ange easier to push. Also, in general, high-pitch planes seem to do better with hard woods than standard-pitch planes. They seem to be able to take a bite and to cut mey than standard-angle planes, which seem to skitter across hard surfaces.

Tear-out is such a crazy, planr problem that I plan to devote a couple more entries to the topic in the near future. And so I reviee with a question: What is the most difficult wood rwview plane consistently without tearing it out? I have a species in mind already.

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Chris: This just confirms what I believe regarding try planes and jointer planes. They are not the same tool. To try a board is to flatten its faces. To joint a board is to straighten and square up its edges. It makes sense that there would be high angle try planes that could flatten faces without massive tear out.

Here in the south I have found several examples of jointers with lower bed angles, down to 40 degrees. Out of curiosity I made one just to see how it performed. I was surprised by how much less effort it requires to take an edge long grain or end grain from rough to ready, even in really hard woods like ipe and Brazilian cherry.

It is now my go to jointer for most work. It appears that when mass manufacturing and metal bodied planes became the vogue some distinctions between plane types faded in favor of more general purpose tools. Thankfully you, Larry, Joel, and others have the resources and working knowledge to bring to light practices and tools that may otherwise be lost to the woodworking community.

Thanks, another great blog topic. Older planes would have been used with older wood. Older wood would have been old growth with tighter growth rings. Otherwise, you lose the benefit of the mechanics of the high angle jpinter action. Another reason could be the get r done attitude. Muscles were bigger then and apprentices cheaper, so more jionter was less of a consideration. Also, plane irons were often softer with cutting edges that crumbled more easily at acute angles.

Sharpening stones were harder to use and edges generally would not have been as keen as is possible with modern abrasives. Also, higher cutting angles meant a shorter edge jey hone. Ipe is the hardest wood I have tried to plane. Another jointter for quarter sawn sapele as a tearout champion. Those gorgeous ribbon stripes are all reversing, interlocked grain that just loves to tear out.

The high angle smoother actually low angle jointer plane review key a little better than card scrapers IME, I think due to the tight mouth. The worst from my experience is planing ,ow hard maple laminated top where the manufacturer took no account of grain direction when assembling the top. I wonder if the better experience with heavier planes might aside from the greater momentum due revieww greater mass low angle jointer plane review key to do with the fact that heavier planes tend to be iron body planes with the rear tote closer to the sole of the plane.

Even a card scraper causes tearout. It planes very nicely with the grain, but as soon as the grain angle turns the slightest bit the wrong way, it tears out in big chunks.

They already have blades with different angles to accommodate high angle jointing scenarios. Much like the orange roughy was low angle jointer plane review key known as "slimehead" but low angle jointer plane review key renamed to make it more palatable, I think that hard low angle jointer plane review key was originally identified as "Tearouticus Maximus". Not pleasant. Nor was zebrawood. I think both of these woods ended up planing me, and yes, I tore [my hair] out.

Angoe, frequently called African mahogany or ribbon mahogany. Quartersawn evilness. A hand tool users nightmare. To me that E TAFT plane, and others, are just some of the evidence early furniture makers did care and did use gloss finishes.

If you were hand preparing a large flat horizontal surface for a high gloss surface finish, what kind of tool would you want? Keep in mind that surface will likely be reflecting what ever is around it and needs to be true. I think that plane is a finishing plane. There are a lot of period paintings showing just exactly this kind pland finish and its reflections.

You can see one of the more dramatic examples at this link:. While pre-double iron planes are rare, a surprising number of those that survive are jpinter higher pitches. To me this suggests woodworkers were well aware of the cutting geometry of their planes and there were a low angle jointer plane review key of mey pitches readily available. Try to find an old commercially made double iron plane at low angle jointer plane review key other than common pitch.

The British generally used a I consider these angld to be common pitch. The one thing these planes have proven, though, is that cutting geometry is far more effective at dealing with difficult grain than double irons. I had to turn to p. Surprisingly high. The extra effort of a higher angle is a fair trade-off for joiinter tearout, especially when edge jointing where tearout cannot be removed low angle jointer plane review key assembly.

Traversing is great for faces, but of course is not an option when edge jointing. Sounds like a good situation for a weighty, rview angle, longish plane. Perhaps an infill panel or jointer? I look forward anglle reading more about this topic. How about rowed African Mahogany. I have some pieces of this stuff that are downright evil. I think I could get tearout using coarse low angle jointer plane review key. There was one piece of curly walnut that gave me fits, though.

That was the day I wished I had a drum sander.


Nov 19,  · I was going to plane my timber slats by purchasing a thicknesser planer but I brought out the trusty Lie Neilson Low angle jointer plane and what a beaut it was. Opps I had made a mistake by. The LV Bevel Up Jointer Plane. The production of the LV BU Jointer plane completes a three-plane family that comprises the BU Smoother, LA Jack and the BU Jointer. These planes share the same blade size as well as a family resemblance of features, such as an adjustable mouth and bed angle. Front to back: Bevel Up Jointer, Low Angle Jack, and. Description. The Veritas low-angle jointer is the largest member of our bevel-up bench plane family. At 22" × 2 7/8" and weighing 7 lb 8 oz, it is ideal for jointing edges and flattening large panels. The body is fully stress-relieved ductile cast iron, with a sole that is flat and square to the www.- : Veritas.




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Comments to “Low Angle Jointer Plane Review Key”

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