Custom color layups can be made for orders as small as two 48" x 14" panels. Good Luck I've worked a lot of lilac and have had a lot of problems, anytime I include the pith. Will this work, or will it crack regardless of what I turjing Show me Here are three turnings I made from lilac wood. Again, thanks all!

Scientific Name: Syringa spp. Syringa vulgaris. Distribution: Native to Europe and Asia; cultivated in many temperate areas worldwide. Tree Size: ft m tall, in cm trunk diameter. Modulus of Rupture: No data available. Elastic Modulus: No data available. Crushing Strength: No data available. Sometimes seen with reddish or lavender color streaks throughout the heartwood.

Good natural luster. Endgrain: Semi-ring-porous; small to medium earlywood pores and small latewood pores, very numerous; pores can sometimes be exclusively solitary, or a mix of solitary and radial multiples of ; growth rings usually distinct; narrow rays not visible without lens, spacing fairly close; parenchyma absent. Rot Resistance: No official reports available.

Workability: Reported to be an excellent turning wood. Tends to distort and develop end-checks during drying.

Odor: Lilac has a distinct, floral scent when being worked. Small pieces may be occasionally available from through hobbyist and other small-scale channels. Common Uses: Occasionally used for small turned projects such as pens and bowls, as well as carved items.

Comments: In the Oleaceae family, Lilac bears at least a distant relation to Olive. Related Species:. My very limited experience with Lilac is that it seldom gets big enough to use for things like furniture, but if you do manage to get pieces big enough, you should probably be very intentional about how you design the furniture. Prompt shipping and really appreciated the fact partial sizes could be ordered rather than only the full panel options of some of FrogBlanks competitors.

The RHD5 machined very well and the high layer strength left zero tear-out anywhere on my project. Peter and Cliff are obviously very passionate about their product and were helpful every step of the way. I will definitely be ordering again. It grips very well on all the playing surfaces slate, glass, aluminum and titanium.

The sound is very good, and lively Thank you for your understanding. Now we have two additions to that lineup that can be used in single-color or multi-color panels and blanks: Burgundy Frogwood on the left, Yellow Frogwood on the right. CNC turned, light sanding, no finish applied The new burgundy color complements the existing red, and winewood colors:.

Show me Bowl Blanks 5" x 5" and 7" x 7" x 2. Matches our 5" bowl blanks 2. See our selection here Bowl Blanks Scroll down the page for 7" bowls, they are listed after our 5" bowl blanks. I think you'll agree the results are pretty fantastic. People love it John - Florida, United States.

Cool and unique wood, easy to work with will buy again, thanks! Roger Dismore, PenDesigns. I haven't found any UV protective finish that solves the problem of wood changing color when subjected to daylight for any length of time. I tried a bunch including some finishes we used to use to protect outdoor photo graphs. Someone suggested applying sunblock the other day. I'll try it but don't think it will work. You still get sunburned even with SPF 50 if you stay out in the sun very long.

That tells me that it has a limited amount of protection to UV. Kept in the house some will last a long time. I had a beautiful Yellow Poplar board that had some great purples. Made a quilt rack out of it. The purple slowly turned to a brown after several years and this was even covered by the quilt. Beta Tester. Like john no experience with lilac. I have dried a lot limbs and shrubs up to about 3" in diameter of Holly, rhododendron, mountain laurel, dogwood, sumac, citrus mostly.

They always split a little on the ends when the they dry so I lose 4" or less from each end. I and many other folks turn small goblets from green wood limbs.

The goblet if turned thin with cups rounded at the bottom can move as they dry without cracking. Also when mounting be sure the pith it off center so it won't be in the stem. With the whole limbs you can leave the bark around the lip and the base too. A mushroom will generally have too much mass at the top to dry successfully. You can of course undercut and hollow out the underneath side but that is a lot of work for a mushroom. Have fun, Al. R Henrickson.

Just go ahead and make mushrooms and let them crack -- many real mushrooms in nature split on their own. George Guadiane. Additionally, that beautiful color will wash out. But the scent holds pretty well. Good Luck I've worked a lot of lilac and have had a lot of problems, anytime I include the pith. I once read on a UK "bogers" forum they were having similar issues I've tried various coating and slow drying processes, none have worked well The current batch includes "logs" to 4 inches, unfortunately the center 2 inches is gone.

This batch I am going to boil, since I have to boil this winters Madrone Burl also I'll try to post again if I have any success The folllowing work cracked on the lathe, so I filled it with factory dyed wood filler. Bill Blasic. One of the constants in life is that Lilac will crack Saying that I have some that I have been drying for about 5 years now and will try turning in another two or three.

And sadly the color goes away. Thanks, all! I can see this will be a learning experience Mike Brazeau. Lilac will crack no matter what so use it for something linear, ie spindle projects. It has beautiful fine growth rings and make a really nice pen. The purple tint changes to a nice brown for some contrast. Turns really nice too. Kevin Miller. Would stabilizing work maybe? I know it has to be dried first to use catcus juice or something like that, but isn't there something call pentacryl that is supposed to actually displace any water with the resin?

You guys all have way more experience than me on this so I'm sure you all know best. It's just something I read about that I thought might apply here.

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