The tabletop of the table peveling alone is usually wider than most radial arm saws. Question 1 year ago on Step This means that the leveling radial arm saw table 70 blade cuts slightly down into the tabletop on virtually every cut, and over time the table surface becomes filled with grooves from the blade. In terms of size and weight, table saws usually weigh more and are bigger than a radial arm saw. That can be adjusted.

The blade of a table saw is mounted on an arbor and powered by a motor. The blade protrudes through a small opening on the tabletop. The wooden board or log to be cut is usually fed into the path of the spinning blade.

The blade depth can also be adjusted by using a knob usually located on the side of the table saw. Radial arm saws on the other hand use a very different cutting action. The blade of a radial arm saw is mounted on an arm and is suspended above the table. Also, the blade of a radial arm saw can be positioned in different directions and this makes it easier to make cuts. All you have to do is secure the wooden stock with a vise clamp or any other alternative and then lower the blade in the needed direction.

This is different from table saws that have a stationary blade. The blade cannot be moved. This makes it difficult to make some cuts with the table saw. The level of accuracy of the power saw determines how straight and precise the cuts made will be. When it comes to accuracy, table saws are more accurate than radial arm saws. Table saws are designed with tons of features like the fence that makes it very easy to achieve accurate cuts.

The fact that the blade is also stationary prevents any sort of wobble that can affect the straightness of the cut made. Table saws are often used for precision cutting.

If you want to make a piece of furniture or you want to cut wood for joinery, a table saw is the best bet. Table saws also offer minimal vibration since the blade is fixed in place. As long as you used the right blade and you move the wooden stock correctly into the path of the blade, you will arrive at a very precise cut.

Radial arm saws are not exactly built for precision or accuracy. The motor of the radial arm saw is visible and is placed above the table together with the blade. The noise and vibration of the motor affect the accuracy of the cuts made by the radial arm saw.

Though the radial arm saw to some extent is also accurate, the level of accuracy cannot be compared to that of the table saw. While table saws will give you a neat and straight cut, you will notice some sort of wobble when you cut with a radial arm saw.

In terms of size and weight, table saws usually weigh more and are bigger than a radial arm saw. Table saws often need a large floor space to be used. The tabletop of the table saw alone is usually wider than most radial arm saws. This is why you often see table saws in the center of a workshop with other power tools sitting around the saw. Radial arm saws on the other hand are not so big.

Radial arm saws can even sit in the corner of your workshop and the power saw will work just fine. In terms of weight, there is no specific weight for either power saws.

The weight of the saw depends on the brand and type you get. While some table saws can weigh as low as 50 pounds, others can weigh well over pounds. The same goes for radial arm saws. Though the weight depends on the type and brand of Leveling Radial Arm Saw Table Solution the power saw, table saws usually weigh more than radial arm saws. Table saws are safer to use than radial arm saws. Instead of riding in recessed ways, they ride against round rods fastened to the sides of the saw arm.

There is a large Allen screw under the arm at the end near the adjustment knob. See the first photo. This Allen screw keeps the yoke assembly from rolling off of the end of the arm.

Remove the Allen screw from the arm. Cradle the motor and yoke in both hands and guide the bearing rollers into the recessed ways on the arm. Put the Allen screw back in place and tighten it. Make the electrical connections for the switch and install its mount on the top of the saw arm. I use an aftermarket switch from Radio Shack on my saw because the original switch is no longer available from Sears. See this Instructable for details. Tighten the roller bearings with the eccentric cams.

The yoke assembly should slide back and forth on the rollers easily and with the same amount of drag over the length of the saw arm.

Place a hand under the yoke assembly and pull upward with some force. There should be no sensation of looseness between the yoke assembly and the saw arm. While two wrenches are visible in the first photo, my hand is not on one of them in order for me to be able to hold the camera for the photo.

Try to make the tension on both the front and the rear bearing rollers as nearly the same as possible. This saw can operate on or on volts. The plate on top of the motor tells which wires to connect in order to switch from one voltage to another.

The saw draws 10 amps at volts, or 5 amps at volts. The connections are to be made under this cover. I have never run the saw on volts, but there are situations where that option would be an advantage. There is also a reset button. I have had this saw 40 years. In that time I remember using the reset button once. I believe the blade bound up in something and the reset stopped the motor before I could reach the switch.

Two rails support the saw table. It is important for dado cuts, etc. A high corner could destroy accuracy. Each rail is attached with two bolts, one near the front of the saw base and one near the rear. Loosening the bolts a little allows tapping the ends of the rails up or down just a little. The photo demonstrates the recommended way to set the rails.

Rotate the motor in the yoke assembly so the shaft is vertical. Rotate the arm and move the yoke assembly on the arm until the shaft is directly above one of the bolts.

Raise or lower the saw arm until one of the wrenches used for attaching the saw blade slides between the end of the motor shaft and the top of the rail with just a little drag. Lock down all adjustments to the motor yoke adjustment knob at the end of the arm and the stop on the motor carriage to eliminate possible error.

Tighten the bolts on the rails when finished and check the position of the rails above each bolt again. Place the saw table onto the support rails. Align the four bolt holes and bolt the table to the rails. The saw table has some movement when the bolts are loose. That can be used to adjust the front of the saw table where the fence will be positioned so it is exactly 90 degrees to the travel of the motor and yoke on the saw arm.

See this Instructable where I added two blocks to the underside of the saw table and inserted screws through them to make alignment blocks. The tips of the screws ride against the frame of the saw base and allow instant, precise alignment once the screws in the blocks have been adjusted after initially adding the blocks.

Note: It can happen that one of the rails from the previous step is too far forward and the holes in the table do not align with the holes in one of the rails. It may be necessary to repeat the previous step while moving one rail forward or backward a little.

It can also happen that someone acquires a radial arm saw, but the saw table is missing. Here are the dimensions for a Sears Craftsman saw like mine. See the second graphic. After almost 40 years of cut marks I made a new table 48 inches wide.

Also drill into each hole to make a countersink for the bolt heads. This should be deep enough that the blade will not reach them during use. Set a square against the blade to see if it is square with the table when set at zero degrees. In the first photo you can see a gap at the top of the square.

The four Allen screws visible need to be loosened. The bottom two screws are not accessible until the locking knob is removed. Loosen all four screws. The motor is heavier on the right side and it will sag.

A neat trick to make aligning the motor tilt easy is to put a block under the right side of the motor. The crank that raises and lowers the column can be gently tweaked to make the blade parallel to the leg of the square. Put the locking knob back into place. Leave it loose. Push the handle in a clockwise direction to take out the play.

Tighten the adjustment knob. Gently tighten the top two Allen screws, alternating between them. Remove the knob and tighten the two bottom Allen screws. Insert the knob again. Swing the motor into place and lock the knob. Adjust the pointer on the degree scale, if necessary. The internal mechanism consists of a metal wedge pushed inward by the knob.

See the third graphic. The sides of the wedge push two sets of two nylon cylinders outward against internal castings. The nylon cylinders next to the metal wedge have a square end and a rounded end. One of these had been inserted backwards at the factory. I had to remove the motor from the yoke.

Paint marks on the rear pivot of the motor helped me get the motor back into place again. Use a good square to check the travel of the blade so it is at 90 degrees to the fence. Pull the motor down the length of the arm. The blade should lightly touch the square the length of travel. Flip the square over and check from the other side of the blade, too. See this Instructable for a more precise way of checking by cutting two square pieces of thin plywood simultaneously, flipping one over, and checking to see if their edges meet consistently or if they form a "V.

Someone will surely comment that there has been a recall on these saws and free floating blade guards are available. That is true for some older saws, but the serial number on mine is not included as eligible for that offer. A government video to illustrate the alleged dangers of a saw without the floating blade guards shows the operator with his hand flat on the table in the path of the blade. No one with any intelligence would ever place his hand in the path of the blade like that.

The proposed floating blade guards would not save a hand firmly on the saw table in front of the blade travel, anyway. I prefer to keep my hands away from the blade and continue to use the saw just as I have done very safely for the last 40 years. Heel results in burn marks on at least one side of the cut. You can also detect heel when the blade kicks up splinters as it exits the cut at the rear of the cut. Use a framing square to check for heel. Set one leg against the fence.

Bring the other leg against the saw blade. If there is no heel, the square and the saw blade will meet consistently from the front of the blade to the rear. If there is a "V"-shaped gap, the blade has some heel that will need to be removed. The hammer in the first photo is supporting the square so I can check for heel below the motor shaft for more accuracy. In the second photo my finger points to one of the two bolts that lock down the indexing pin mount.

Loosen these two bolts a moderate amount and the pin mount can slide left or right. Hold the indexing pin up and rotate the yoke until the square indicates the heel is gone. Gently lock the yoke in place. Push the indexing pin mount to the right of the photo and lock it down with the two bolts. Loosen the yoke and swing it back into place. Tighten the yoke lever. Check settings with the square again. The most certain test is to make some cuts in some wood and see how the saw performs.

This can be a very tedious process. I think I have it just right, but when I loosen the yoke and swing it into position against the indexing pin, I learn I am "off" a fraction of a degree, perhaps more. I have found a fine adjustment is not too difficult if I tighten the knob that locks the yoke assembly in place on the arm, loosen the chromed lever that locks down the yoke, pull the yoke pin about halfway out of its socket It is tapered, which allows some control over how much the yoke can turn under these conditions.

Then swing the yoke into position again and check alignment. See the third photo for a helpful set up. When using this set up, move the square to the other side of the motor and check the reading on the rule. Tweak until the reading from both sides is the same. Mechanical things do wear.

Indexing holes that were once precise can wear at differing rates so that a saw adjusted for good crosscuts with no heel show quite a bit of heel on rip cuts. See this Instructable for my relatively simple solution to restore accuracy to the indexing holesthir. All radial arm saw adjustments have some play in them. The suggestion is to set the saw up so that you always remove play by nudging the part being positioned in the same direction. However, there are two critical things to watch for when installing the new tabletop:.

When installing a new surface, you will need to make sure that the travel of the radial arm saw is parallel with the table surface at all positions. To test this travel, set the angle of the radial arm saw to the degree cross-cut position, then lower the radial arm saw until the blade is barely touching the surface of the MDF.

Pull the saw forward along its track. The blade should neither dig into the surface or lift away as the saw moves the length of its travel. If it raises or lowers as you pull it across the surface, you'll need to adjust the table. Most saws have adjustable rails on which the tabletop rests, and these rails can be adjusted up or down to ensure the blade is square to the table over its full run.

Or, you can place shims under the MDF surface as it sits on the frame rails to adjust it before bolting it down. Once the horizontal front surface is true to the travel of the saw, the only thing left is to install a fence.

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