The first turning off my lathe, the wood is Blue Keyaki, just a little fun thing to do I then decided to make a good solid stand for the lathe. Toolls really stiffened things up. Umeki-Oire-Nomi Dovetail Chisels. Girlies and Curlies The girls wanted to get in on the fun japanese wood turning tools jp the lathe, so they headed down to the Dungeon on Sunday afternoon and we went through the basics, and then I let them get japanese wood turning tools jp feel for the process. All Japanese chisels are typically hardened a couple of points harder than Western chisels. Should be good and solid. In the pic above, you can see the mock-up I did, it is all just standing there.

Yep, making a mess for sure!! The vibrations are all but gone!! The next thing I did was put a pipe above the lathe, this gives me a spot to put a light, and I can put the DC here to get the sanding dust. The next thing I needed to do was make a sharpening station, as the tool I have were dull dull dull I made this up, and it worked well, but the hinge in the folding shelf bracket wobbled badly Here I've liberated the gouge from it's shorty handle.

I took the threaded ends off, as they are sharp!! I ground a flat spot to weld the nut in place. Like this Here you can see the Skew held in place. I can get a nice consistent grind on the tools. Yep, seems to work fine! I only have the 12" tool rest that I got with the lathe, this is rather long for a lot of stuff, I wanted to make a shorter one.

I can not find any 22mm stock that fits in the hole on the banjo, but I did find some gas pipe that is 22 mm. Here is the backside, the welds are double thick, as I welded over the first welds, to add to the strength.

The other side. Here the tool rest is on the lathe. A view from the side. I have a problem, with the rest centered, on this short 6 inch piece, I cannot get the banjo close enough to the wood, the end of the banjo hits the tail or head stock. I have to move it to the left, or The second real turning to come off my lathe, a carving mallet, or a "Bonker". The wood is Japanese Ornamental Cherry, or "Sakura". The girls wanted to get in on the fun of the lathe, so they headed down to the Dungeon on Sunday afternoon and we went through the basics, and then I let them get a feel for the process.

Erika started off, she was fairly aggressive and wanted to hog off all the wood in one pass, roughing out did not seem to bother her at all. Mizuki did not like the tool bouncing around on rough out, so I helped her a bit with that, but when she got going she showed a healthy respect for the whole thing, and was able to take VERY light smooth cuts. First blank on the faceplate. Roughed out. After boiling, I see I have some cracks.

OK there are lots of cracks!!! I did my best, but it was not wanting to turn nice, the area where the CA was, I got a ton of catches, even with the scraper!! I even got a nice recess bottom. A couple of screws on my fast and dirty resaw sled I put a face plate on the back of this blank, as I'm going to try to do a NE. All chucked up ready to do the inside of the bowl so I barely get going on the inside and BAM Not even a big catch, really just a minor one, but it came off.

Upon closer inspection the dark area of the wood was really soft and punky Tenon returned, but I'll admit, I still had a few more get offs, mainly as the spindle gouge I'm using don't like the inside of the bowl, the outside I can get nice cuts, but the inside is a lot harder Here is the bottom of the rough out, I had to work hard to get the bottom thinner than the sides, as I learned on Mr.

Grumbine's DVD. I'll let this one dry in the paper bag, don't think the boiling method will work so well with Japanese Wood Turning Tools Jacket the NE Will it? A good scraper would help too. One of the stretchers on the legs broke I had this little hand drill driven lathe that I bought on an impulse buy Here are my Japanese Wood Turning Tools Journal turning tools Not expensive stuff, but they seem to work OK They all need some sharpening, for which I have to make a jig etc.

Fast Forward six months or so I got the lathe, and bolted it together, on my work table, and had some fun The first turning off my lathe, the wood is Blue Keyaki, just a little fun thing to do I then decided to make a good solid stand for the lathe.

In the pic above, you can see the mock-up I did, it is all just standing there. I put a switch on that I had laying around, I also put some gussets between the top and the bottom of the I-beam near the head and tail stock, this helped, as the I-beam flexed a fair bit to the side. A Tool Rest I only have the 12" tool rest that I got with the lathe, this is rather long for a lot of stuff, I wanted to make a shorter one. This is great chisel abrasive woods.

Most of our chisels are made from "White Steel," which is a superb tool steel for edge tools. We also carry some tools in "Blue Steel," which is tougher to forge and requires tremendous skill, but also improves the toughness of the edge.

Another important difference is that Japanese chisels have hollow ground backs. This makes it easier to create and keep a flat back on the chisel. A characteristic of more expensive tools is their tendency to have multiple hollows in the wider sizes.

This increases stability. In theory, if you grind the tool's edge, you may have a situation in which the back must be hammered out to fill in the hollow at the edge. But with normal usage, as long as you hone the backs when you hone the bevel, you should be fine and never have to tap out the hollow. Click here for a guide to the application of different types of chisels.

Click here for a comparison chart of our chisels.

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