First up is the dozukiwhich is essentially a Japanese dovetail saw. One side is generally filed for crosscutting, while the other side are used for ripping. Furthermore, the handle is not too heavy for flexibility and is made of high impact ABS plastic. Best Overall. Hold the blade at a degree angle and cut steadily. Japanese pull saw reviews can also access tight spots more easily due to the shorter blade length. Designed primarily for general construction work, the anahiki is a beam or log cutting saw Japanese Pull Saw Lidl that can be used on both green and seasoned woods.

One of the most useful and common Japanese saws is the dozuki. Dozuki saws are the perfect Japanese saws for dovetails. It was the very first Japanese pull saw I personally purchased, and it still has a permanent spot on my workbench.

The back ensures that you get a straight cut on your first or thousandth time using the saw. This particular listing includes a replacement blade. You can swap it with a gentle tapping motion when the time comes, but unless you misuse it that will be many years from now. Next up is one of the best mid-range dozuki saws you can get. It comes from the trusted brand Suizan, a name you will read again and again on this list.

The blade is razor sharp out of the box, and it leaves a miniscule 0. My last pick for the best dozuki saws is a bit more expensive, but for a good reason. In addition to razor sharp teeth, tiny kerfs, and a durable blade, it also folds into a near little package.

This folding dozuki saw from Gyokucho again, a fantastic brand features a full 9. The spline runs the entire length of the blade, so you will never have to worry about flexing again. In truth, the only real downside here is the price. If space is at a premium in your workshop or toolbox, this is more than worth the extra expense. Ryoba saws are by far the most versatile Japanese pull saws you can buy. With both crosscut and rip cut teeth, you can use them for all kinds of tasks.

Thanks to the thin kerf and sharp teeth, even very long rip cuts are not off the table. The main thing to consider with ryoba saws is size. You can get a very large saw for quick resaws or a smaller saw for tenons and other joinery work. Either way, a single ryoba can reasonably replace several western saws in your kit. Here are my picks for the best ones to buy.

Suizan is back again, this time with a 9. Like all ryobas, it has two sets of teeth, one for crosscuts and one for rip cuts. This single saw can fill just about any role you can need out of a hand saw.

The long cane-covered handle is also comfortable for one- or two-handed use. All you need to replace it is a simple screwdriver. While most Japanese pull saws are designed for use with softwoods, this Gyokucho ryoba is made for hardwood. It will saw through all but the hardest materials like butter. Any time I need a quick cut, whatever the orientation, this is the saw I reach for.

True to form, my last pick is yet another folding Japanese saw. Get inspired: No workshop, no problem for returning woodworker Dominic. This Japanese pull saw cuts just as well as its non-folding counterparts, but it has a few other design quirks. The handle is significantly heavier and you will need to be careful when its folded as there are exposed teeth.

At first glance, the kataba might seem like a less useful ryoba with just one set of teeth. The missing back rib also makes it less accurate for fine joinery than a dozuki. But my kataba quickly become my favorite saw to use. It leaves a cleaner rip cut than a ryoba, cuts deeper than a dozuki, and can be gently bent for easy flush cuts.

Plus, they work great with magnetic guides of all kinds. First up is another great saw from Gyokucho. With just a short spline to hold the blade in place, you have nearly the full blade at your disposal.

It takes a bit more finesse than a ryoba or dozuki, but it can do the job of both with some experience. This particular saw has crosscut teeth which are sharp enough to cut through just about anything. It may not be the best choice for very long rip cuts in thick stock, but just about anything else is fair game. The last Japanese saw I want to highlight here is the kugihiki.

Basically a smaller kataba or ryoba, these saws are extremely good at what they do. With a flexible blade and teeth that are tightly set into the kerf, you can cut dowels or other small protruding pieces without damaging the main piece. My top pick is this double sided Japanese flush cut saw from Suizan.

It has two sets of teeth, one for softwoods and one for hardwoods. Both work like a dream, and the flexible blade is perfect for trimming dowels without marring your work. It also has a double-edged blade that can cut through any material with ease. If you are worried about damage, you can slip a piece of paper between the blade and the piece to prevent any scratches. Thanks to sharp teeth and a thin blade, they glide through just about any type of wood with minimal effort.

The first thing to know is that they cut on the pull stroke , rather than the push stroke. Much like a western saw, the first step is always marking your cut. Make sure the mark is square, and for extra accuracy create a knife wall with a marking knife and chisel for your saw to slot right into. Ease into the cut with short movements to ensure alignment, looking straight down the blade.

From there, just gently saw the wood with a smooth, pendulum motion. Under no circumstances should you put downward pressure on the cut. This will cause it to bind, bend, and veer off course. Let the saw do the work! High-end models have usually been hardened along the entire blade instead of just the teeth.

This makes them more prone to snapping if abused or used incorrectly. Its TPI is The smoothness of cuts by this saw has to be experienced to be believed. Due to the ultra-thin blade 0. The overall quality has made this saw a true winner for most users. Mastering a ryoba can be a little difficult for those used to push saws, and this has left some owners disappointed. Give it a little practice before giving up, as this is an excellent tool once you get used to it. Arguably the best Japanese pull saw for precision dovetail work, this dozuki has an incredibly thin kerf.

The handle is wrapped in traditional rattan, making for a surprisingly comfortable grip. Additionally, the teeth are heat treated to retain their sharpness longer. Owners of this dozuki love the ultra-thin kerf 0. Its 0. The biggest problem users of this saw have are with the teeth.

Heat treating may hold sharpness longer, but it can also make the teeth more brittle. Be prepared to buy replacement blades as needed.

Sometimes a ryoba is too limited for the crosscut you need. This kataba can cut even the toughest of woods with ease. The hand-wrapped rattan handle provides superior comfort and the teeth 14 TPI are heat treated to hold their sharpness longer. It can be tough to find a good quality kataba, making this saw all the more impressive for fans of Japanese carpentry tools.

Owners have used it to cut hardwood lumber of various sizes with ease, and the teeth arrive incredibly sharp.

Z-Saw claims this is the best selling saw in Japan and who are we to argue. Nothing rips like a well-made dozuki. This one by Z-Saw boasts a tensioned high carbon steel blade with 26 teeth per inch and a blade thickness of only 0. This saw cuts extremely well, and has served its owners in a wide range of tasks. It has just enough flexibility to aid in cutting without the risk of bending off the line. The overall quality is also excellent, making this an excellent dozuki for beginners.

This Japanese razor saw is a modern take on the classic ryoba design. Unlike traditional ryoba, this version features a handle which can be tilted or rotated to allow for cuts in difficult to reach spaces.

All of the teeth on the 7-inch blade have been impulse hardened to help prevent dulling. Using the , many owners have noted it outperforms their powered saws in both speed and accuracy.

The cuts are extremely clean, and it works equally well on just about any type of wood. The low cost and overall quality make this saw an excellent gift idea. The key feature of this saw is also its main weak point. Several users have complained that the handle becomes loose after several uses, resulting in problems retaining the blade.

As mentioned, a skilled Japanese craftsman avoids metal nails and screws, building almost entirely from joint work. Besides the specialized kanna plane and nomi chisel , a good nokogiri pull saw is essential to woodworking.

There are several types of nokogiri, each of which has its own special uses. Most can be classified into either kataba or ryobi styled blades. Designed primarily for general construction work, the anahiki is a beam or log cutting saw that can be used on both green and seasoned woods.

In a workshop, it can be used for rough-cutting pieces of rough-sawn lumber. This short, curved-blade saw is usually available as a ryoba-style. It can also access tight spots more easily due to the shorter blade length.

This kataba style saw has a stiff spine which ensures straighter cuts at the cost of depth. This is a single-edged saw that is perfect for general-purpose use. The lack of a back means it can make deeper cuts, although the blade itself is thicker.

Its teeth are filed for ripping and crosscuts. The ripping version may include a set of smaller starting teeth at the rear and larger teeth towards the tip to allow for faster cuts. The teeth on this saw have no set, allowing it to flush-cut wooden nails or dowels. The tip is thinner and more flexible to allow flush cuts at odd angles with less risk of damaging the surface, while the rear is thicker to allow for more aggressive cuts. These saws have cutting teeth on both sides of the blade.

One side is generally filed for crosscutting, while the other side are used for ripping. On some ryoba, the teeth on one side will be used for hardwood and the other softwood.

The blade is thinner in the middle to help prevent binding, and the number and size of teeth will vary based on the blade length. This curve-cutting saw was originally used for crafting the bottom of wooden buckets, hence the name. The curvature allows you to cut curves in both hardwood and softwood. Many of the techniques you use for Western saws can also be used on a nokogiri.

You will want to grip further down the handle the exact pivot point will vary from person to person , and starting a cut should be done with the rear of the blade, since the saw works on the pull stroke. Always start off slow and gentle, building speed and pressure slowly to avoid a jam.

You will also want to finish off slow and gentle to prevent splintering. As with other types of saws , you want to store you nokogiri in a dry place, as the blade can rust and avoid trying to cut on the push, as this can break the teeth. The answer to this depends largely upon whether or not the teeth were impulse-hardened. Hardened teeth cannot be resharpened, as they are harder than the feather files.

Feather files are available in a few sizes, but 3 for dozuki and 4 for ryoba. Clamp your saw in a vise and sharpen every other tooth with the feather file. It will take three to four pushes per tooth, unless severely damaged.

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