Mark off the center of this piece and draw hnge 90 european hinge zone mark across the piece. Now you need a method of centering the jig on the drill press table and under the center of the drill bit. For Technical Support, please call or european hinge zone a message. Bathroom Hardware. You will find it on page one line 19,-- June 21, in a reply to Justin Waldron.

The next difference is the amount of overlay that you wish to use for your doors to be. This will determine the size of the doors you build both for height and for width and is the opening going to need a single door or a multiple door system. This is the main difference in the face frame cabinet and the frameless cabinet. In short you need a hinge that will hinge the door so that there is a even amount of overlay on the face frame.

It will also require the combination of hinge that will allow as many doors needed to hang to fill the cabinet openings. What I am saying is that there must be enough face frame and overlay sizing as well as door size to allow a set of cabinets to have a door hinged on each face frame that is needed for the number of door openings. Example if you have a multiple cabinet with a standard face frame and the cabinets share the same face frame memberthen that hinge door size will require you to divide the face frame evenly for the door.

With this arrangement it is also critical that you keep the doors thin enough to allow them to open side by side at the same time as well as one at a time. The good thing about a European hinge it opens differently as it opens and if you will look they will hinge open and outward from the face frame.

What happens is the as the door is opened the panel weight will push back on the thin material of the back and crack appear. When the door is closed the panel will again push against the rear thin material as once the frame stops against the cabinet face frame that heavy panel continues to move and again puts even more pressure against thin door frame material that it did when opened.

The length of time of service will depend on the persons whom are opening and closing the door. It is opened and closed gently and slowly or it slammed shut. Another factor in life of a door is the type of material and wood graining used in the door. What many do nor realize is that a framed door is made of 5 pieces, the two up and down frame members vertical called stiles and the two horizontal frame members called rails and then the panel of the door. The panel floats within the door frame members to prevent splitting in seasonal changes.

The exception of a floating panel could be plywood as there is on seasonal changes in the panel. In normal door construction it is best to treat all panels the same way and leave them shy of the width of the door frame opening. These keep the door panel tight in the frame yet allows movement from seasonal changes. As for brands of hinges there are many,and many carry American names however most are still manufactured in Europe or other foreign companies for use in America.

They are still figured in millimeters and often need to be converted to American Some of the brand names are: Blum, Salice, Amrock, Liberty which are home depot brand Inset Cabinet Door Hinges European Pdf , Melpa. Grass and many other off brand hinges. My favorite two hinges is the Blum and Salice as they are about as good as your are going to get. Another I will sometime use is the Grass. These are more expensive but here you get what you pay for.

Many are offered with a soft close and self close feature which are nice but again more expensive. Another feature offered is the type of door mounting of which are 35mm and some are screw on and some are dowel style of which is driven into the door mounting holes.

These require three holes to be drilled for each hinge. Another type is one that has a cam style that is inserted and the cam forced out against the mounting European Cabinet Door Hinges Ltd hole. These hinges also come in the clip on and non clip on style. I prefer the clip on as the offer you the ability to remove the door quickly and without removing screws and or disturbing the door hinge adjustment. As for adjustment different hinges allow a different amount of adjustment but most allow for way adjustment and some give you the added ability to cock the door to allow for face frame to door on difficult door hanging.

Some are simple and some take more time to adjust. The above figures that you have included in your post are correct and is figuring the sizing of door for a double door without a center stile. I hope this covers most of the questions about hinges and doors. I did recently write a long detailed post of hinges in answer to a post from Kreg Community Member Tim Hadaway and it was in answer to hinges being made in metric sizes. You should be able to find it on his page.

I have also cabinet door building post on my page. You will find it on either "my Photos" or "My Projects" There is a slide show posted. I have great success with the Kreg pocket hole tool however I own the all metal one that that I first bought when they were a young company, It is the K-2 of which I modified the clamp system to use a air clamp to speed up production.

I also have a K-3 and a K-4 and have not had any of the problems that many have reported. Of course every company always had the great tool to do a specialty job but the catch was that it was expensive and more often than not, dedicated to one particular brand of product. One of these was the hinge boring drill press. I used several and found that there was nothing special about them other than the special fixture to position the point of the hinge hole.

That is why I build the jig. That was about 27 years ago and it has always performed what I needed and without causing any mistakes. The only thing it will not do is drill the smaller holes for the dowel pins however from my experience it is much better to use a screw as I have seen too many of the nylon plastic dowels pull out from the door frame.

Most of the hinges that they send you now days have the dowel attached so I just remove them and replace with a screw. The only reason that the dowel is there is for speedy installation of which they press and or drive in the dowel, which is another feature that the company that build the hinge drill add to the cost of the unit.

I took it on myself to look for the post that I said I had posted on here, and found it but see that some are missing of which I had with the photos of the jig in use in detail. I did find the below listed with one showing a few photos that will explain the simple jig to you.

Basically it is just a straight piece of hardwood oak that I can lay across the drill press table. You will see that there are two simple old style cabinet hinges attached with two short pieces of hardwood that you can flip up and down providing you with a stop block for the door edge that positions the hinge both from the edge of the door and also positions it from the top and bottom of the door. You will find that you will need yourself a set up block of which will set the jig fixture on the drill press table so that it references the location of the drill bit both for the edge and the centering of the door stile so that the bored hole is in a given location.

As a rule of thumb I find that a 3 inch center from the edge works well for most cabinet doors. There is one exception as you must make sure that there is not obstruction inside of the cabinet box that will be in the way of a hinge. An example of this would be such things as a fixed shelf and or maybe a revolving tray such as a lazy Susan and or a pull out shelf of rack. In these cases you might want to relocate the hinge position. It also gives you a depth position that you will drill a 35mm hole into the block.

To make the stop of the bit drill depth I use the drill press stop on the quill travel. That is the easiest method and gives you the depth without having to guess and re-measure with each hole. I explained this on some of my door making post that I have made on here.

Here is the perma links that I found that might interest you. Have a good day. Some of the cheaper European hinges do not have the hinge adjustment method so critical door widths are critical. You must be certain when you build the door that you build it to close tolerances if you do not have the adjustable hinge.

One of the better face frame hinges for this use is either the blum, salice pronounced sa-le chee , or grass hinge as these have worked out the best for me. Recently you e-mailed me some photos of your new corner cabinet. The cabinet is well built and will need two doors swinging off of a face frame. I did note that the size was 24 inches by 24 inches and 12 inches deep.

This will make the doors very small in width being about 10 inches wide depending on the stile width. This means that you have limited access into the cabinets interior. Since this cabinet has no mid stile your options are to swing two doors, one from each side, or to swing the two doors as one unit from either the right side or the left side having the doors hinged in the middle with either a piano hinge or one of the special mid hinge bi-fold hinge like salice makes.

The best option would be to use the bi-fold hinge and to use the face frame hinge that will offer you the most degrees of swing opening. Otherwise you have a large door stuck in your face. Your best option is to use a set of face frame hinges that allow you the degree opening of which is what I use on lazy susan doors in combination with the bi-fold hinge set. This will allow you to fold the door out from the cabinet and back against the adjoining cabinets.

The other option of which is not the best, is to add a center stile that is built with a 90 degree corner to fit the already installed face frame. You will need to be sure that you build this wide enough to allow the two doors to bypass each other when opening. This means swinging the doors separately from each side. There is no way you can swing the doors from each side separately without having a large gap in the center at the 90 degree bend. If you build the doors to fit the opening you can not get the door to swing out past each other.

This is the reason that I do not recommend a 90 degree corner cabinet unless it is a large one of which you have room to add a mid stile and still have room to access the cabinet interior. This is what causes many blind cabinets to be built in earlier years and even today where cabinet makers do not utilize the current hardware.

The last corner cabinet build I did was one that was built at a 45 degree angle and allowed me to build two separate doors and use the large space underneath to install a large microwave , refer to my page and it is shown in photos under my project custom kitchen cabinets This was the reason for doing this and it also puts the cabinet out off the wall enough to easily access the upper corner cabinet as remember in most instances you will have a larger base cabinet underneath.

That puts the upper corner cabinet up out of easy reach as you have the width of the lower base cabinet to contend with. On building the lower corner cabinet you can get away with doing a 90 degree turn as you have a much larger cabinet to work with giving you the ability to build larger doors. Convenient for small and light doors. For small wall cabinets and built-in units. For large and small wall cabinets, offering many integrated features.

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Page of 1. Filtered by:. Previous template Next. Hi There, I bought quite a few of these doors when HD was clearing them out a while back. I finally got around and start to use them. I found the pre-drill holes don't match with the current stocked concealed hinges in HD. Just wondering if anyone had use these doors before and can share what size I should look for.

The door pack I am looking to use is pack G. Thanks, Joe. Tags: None. Jeffrey Schronce. I don't understand. You are saying they are pre-drilled for euro hinges? What doesn't fit?

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