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30.12.2020It claims to restore compression by filling in the wear marks between the piston rings and the cylindar walls. My question to you professional wrench-heads out there is … is this suff too good to be true? The manufacturer recommeds that a can be added at each oil change. Does anyone have any long term experience with this product?
I do not know if you are old enough to remember stp, My understanding of it all is that it basically increases the viscosity of the oil, to pretend the problem is not there, basically worn piston rings. The engine will eventually wear to the point the stuff will not work as it does now. I saw their site and can make no firm conclusions but I would try switching to a heavier weight oil and know I control the situation, Heck that Engine Flush Bitog Noise could be making your oil similar to a 90 w for all we know but it is a stop gap measure that may loose you miles in the long run.
I personally never have had to use those products, but I believe it is probably get as thick as molasses and that will just about seal just about everything. The Son has an 85 Jeep where blow-by became an issue. Would the same results be achieved by switching to a higher viscosity oil or does it in fact " fill and seal microscopic leaks in cylinder walls"? Using a higher viscosity oil in an engine that has cylinder wear only causes more cylinder wear during cold starts.
So going that route is only going to make the condition worse. Products like STP are just viscosity index modifiers that causes the oil to become thicker.
Might as well use a thicker oil to wear the engine out faster during cold starts. Got any idea what it does to the oil filter? Any other possible areas it might clog? I might mention that this is not my only car.
The data for cylinder walls looks possible. Nowhere does the product claim to help with bearing wear. Right you are! If this stuff does what it claims for fixing blow-by I will be a well satisfied customer.
Thanks for your sage advice, particulary the comments about the false concept of fixing problems by simply increasing oil viscosity. But I'd like to take the easiest route to re-ringing the engine as possible, other than just using certain oils or additives and living with it. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
Isaac Zachary likes this. AFAIK, if 2nd gen engine is sim to 3'rd: to access crankshaft you need to separate a split line, about midway between oil pan and head. Engine removal is only practical method? SFO Senior Member. Neither Chem-Dip variety part nor part is ideal for a piston soak. Please note that it can take up to a pint per cylinder to cover the entire piston, depending on the configuration of the engine flat 6, V8, etc.
So it is possible to re-ring with the engine in the car Prius piston rings - YouTube. Flip a coin. I'd pick either product. Warm up the engine and force charge the HV battery. Remove all spark plugs and if needed rotate the engine with a socket on the crankshaft pulley until the all pistons are about half way down the bore.
Pull the plugs again. Do not let it soak too long. I have read that you don't want to let the engine cool off with cleaner Engine Flush Bitog Design in it as it could make the stuck rings worse. Suck as much liquid as possible out. Cover the plug holes with an old towel weighted down with something and try to start the engine this will blow out any remaining fluid.
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