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07.11.2020This will cause premature wear of the tool, and overheating which can cause bits to snap. Now if we switched to a single flute end mill, running at 12, RPM, we would be making the same number of cuts per given feed rate as the mill running 3, RPM, and we would expect the same quality finish.
When working with aluminum it is very important to secure your material as solid as possible. While you can simply lay an aluminum plate on the table and then use the cross clamps to secure it, using a T-Slot table will provide you with a much more solid work surface and give you a lot of flexibility when it comes to securing your materials.
Aluminum plates can work fine on the stock table, but if you want to work with Aluminum bar stock, you will need to install some sort of a vice on your machine and the T-Slot is perfect for that. My personal preference is to use a T-slot whenever I work with Aluminum because the more secure I can clamp my material down, the less chance there is for vibration which can affect the cut quality and can even cause tools to break.
With a T-Slot Table — If you have a T-Slot table you can invest in many different types of clamps to secure your material to the table. You will need either T-slot nuts or bolts that will fit in the channel of the table. Keep in mind that the channel in the table is 10mm wide with a 6mm opening, so most bolts and nuts designed in inches, will not fit — they will most likely be too large.
Spoil Board — The spoil board is very important if you intend to cut all the way through your material. It will allow you to cut about. When working with aluminum I prefer to use acrylic as my spoil board. It is usually always machined true were wood is not. When you are working in thousandths of an inch, any deviation in the spoil board will transfer into the work piece.
If you have to use wood, MDF would be my choice. In the worse case you can always use a second piece of aluminum and that will become your universal spoil board from now on. Here is a spoilboard that a customer did using a piece of wood. You can use the Dewalt, which will work fine as well, but I would not use a Dremel for aluminum as it does not have the durability to be used with harder material in a CNC like this.
The HF is a nice option because the RPM is controlled and maintained by the software, giving you a lot of control to keep within your optimum RPM range. The Kress, however is a manual spindle that you have to turn on and off manually and there is a dial to adjust the RPM.
Both have their advantages. If you are going to only do aluminum every so often and wood is a primary material, then go with the Kress. This is especially important when you are making deep profile cuts. When chips fall into a channel that you are cutting and they pile up in front of the tool, you run the rick of re-cutting the chips as you are cutting your material. When this happens you will hear a lot of chatter, which, at the very least will ruin your finish, but will most likely cause the chips to weld to the tip of the tool and eventually snap the bit.
The best solution is to use a flexible air nozzle that is connected to an air compressor. Keep a low, constant flow of air pressure directed at the bit. This will keep the bit cool and blow the chips out of the way before they have a chance to pile up.
This tip can mean the difference between a very nice looking final piece and broken bits, poor finish quality and an overall unpleasant experience. NOTE: We will be adding more as we test more tooling. The design for these is very simple. You'll need some hardware to make them work though: Clamp material: any kind of wood should do. I used colored MDF to make them colorful.
M5 Hardware: you'll need a couple of M5 bolts, or whatever your wasteboard accepts. Threaded insert: I used this threaded insert to make the cantilever in the back of the clamp. Participated in the Wood Contest View Contest. Did you make this project?
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