О сервисе Прессе Авторские права Связаться с нами Авторам Рекламодателям. How to Instal Cabinet Drawers with Ball-Bearing Drawer Slides - YouTube. Installing Drawers with Blum Tandem plus Blumotion drawer slides - Sawdust Girl®.  Fortunately, manufacturers supply replacement slides for just about every application. But before you run out to the hardware store to buy brand-new tracks for sticky drawers, try adjusting the track screws. The key to smooth-pulling drawers is to know how to use the adjusting screws, located in oval. Undermount drawer slides are ball-bearing slides that are sold in pairs. They mount to the sides of the cabinet and connect to locking devices attached to the underside of the drawer. Not visible when the drawer is open, making them a good choice if you want to highlight your cabinetry. Require less clearance between the drawer sides and the cabinet opening (usually 3/16" to 1/4" per side). Require specific clearance at top and bottom of cabinet opening; drawer sides typically can be no more than 5/8" thick. Space from underside of drawer bottom to bottom of drawer sides must be. After my mishap, I exchanged several emails with GreeSonic, trying to determine what adhesive they recommend. This is a fun little customization. There are screws in each of the four rfplacement of the panel, two bolts cabinet drawer slide replacement unity under the black handle cover and eleven plastic snaps all the way around. It seems to be normal that every individual rig will have some issues draqer be resolved. This leaves the potential for the other pairs to work at full capacity in parallel.

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Item One issue of concern with lithium batteries though is that many some? Without a safety disconnect, my concern would be that, when the RV is parked and unoccupied for a while, the battery could become cold-soaked and end up getting charged via the alternator or the solar charge controller in below-freezing temperatures. It also might get pretty cold in an outside compartment even while the vehicle is under way.

Interestingly, StarkPower claims that their batteries can handle charging well below freezing temperatures. Update: Well, I did it! I ordered and installed a pair of StarkPower Ah batteries. These things weigh almost half as much as my original flooded lead acid batteries 70 lbs total vs.

I had to get an additional length of heavy gauge wire so that I could connect the two 12V batteries in parallel. The original 6V batteries were of course wired in series to produce 12V. As with the earlier battery monitor installation, I found the requisite wire and connectors at my local West Marine store. The StarkPower Ah batteries are smaller depth-wise but longer length-wise than the original Interstate batteries so I had to move the little blocks that are supposed to keep the batteries from sliding around in the compartment.

I first removed them all and then reinstalled the back bar forward an inch or so. I then mounted one bar on the wall of either side of the compartment. See photo below. Together, the batteries are too long to slide in past the opening so I had to file the opening to the compartment to make it a little wider.

The StarkPower batteries are wider at the top versus the bottom. I reused the straps from the original batteries to give me something to pull on. Lastly I slipped one of the two remaining bars on the side to get rid of any play.

When I was making the battery terminal connections, I mistakenly tried to tighten them to a similar degree that the original battery terminals seems to be tightened to — as well as using the lock washers from the original battery terminals. This proved to be too much for the StarkPower terminals and one of them broke off on me.

When I contacted them, they told me that they were looking into getting better terminals. To fix this though, they offered to just sent me a new top since that would be quicker and easier than sending back the whole battery. And the batteries tend to be recharged again by late morning on the watts of solar — mostly thanks to that wonderful MPPT charge controller upgrade.

You can order them from some European outlets or from Winnebago parts suppliers, like Lichtsinn RV , but I ordered mine from a supplier that lists them on Amazon. I have a model without that camera, so here goes…. Much of the installation trouble spawned from the included instructions.

The images very small photographs were often too small to see important detail and the terse, written captions left out important or clarifying details.

In the end, we had to find another bolt that would fit in the now ruined threads of one end of the guide tubes. As a result, when you go to snap the pieces in place you might yourself hearing them pop free and go tumbling inside the dash assembly.

After several attempts and having to take apart part of the dash to retrieve the clips , I wised up and used some duct tape to secure the clips in their flimsy holders. We eventually determined that the short guide rod had to go along the roof and the longer one below. We also placed the bottom guide bracket in front of the speaker grille not on top of it.

Fourth, in case this was not clear, you need to attach the rods on the passenger side by driving screws into the ends of the rods through the passenger piece.

Also, I recommend getting some small washers for most of the six screws that fasten the side blinds to each door frame to keep the screw head from breaking the plastic. See picture below. Are there differences in the mirror placement over the years? This is a Sprinter chassis. You can also see in these pictures what the blinds look like both inside and out when open:.

For additional winter insulation, we also cut some Reflectix insulating material to fit the cab windows and tuck in between the blinds and the glass. I had already bought a nice, Reflectix-like insulated windshield shade that still fits in nicely behind the blinds when necessary.

There are a few things about the construction of the blinds I think could be done better, like how well several different portions of the blind frames meet up with the original cab frames — particularly given how expensive they are. And like the original curtains, they do add a bit of clutter to the cab area.

However, they are pretty slick and convenient to use. Apparently they used to and then stopped offering them. Unfortunately, to avoid clogging or even damaging the system, this design requires that the fridge and thus the RV be kept level when in use, which is an extra hassle when wild camping or just parking on a slope. As a bonus, the refrigerator portion is on top and more easily accessible… yay!

Since the Nova Kool unit is a bit smaller in height and width than the original Dometic , it was necessary to build a little platform to take up some of the vertical space. I had to lower the platform and make a little trim piece above to fill in the gap up front and along one side of the unit. Then I discovered how irregularly shaped this thing is. To close up the gaps behind the frame in front, I used black insulation tape all around.

I forgot to take a picture of the back of the unit before finishing the installation, but the rear of the Nova Kool is not a solid block like the original Dometic. Unlike the frameless Dometic unit which screws into the surrounding cabinet frame outwards from inside the body, the Nova Kool unit is designed to be secured via screw holes in its front plastic frame to the front of the cabinet.

So I secured it by using the two bottom screw holes since these were going into my added platform base and not the original cabinetry and then I mimicked the Dometic by screwing outwards from inside the unit into the surrounding frame.

I was even able to use an existing hidden hole behind the control panel on the left pictured. So yes, it was quite the hassle to install it in the existing cutout but it does seem to run well in my initial testing. See my update below though on having to rip out that false wall in the back of the compartment to allow the condenser coil enough room. Ideally I think I would prefer to have the Dometic in an efficient DC-powered compressor version.

Hmmm… I wonder how easily the Dometic could be adapted using the parts from the Nova Kool? It pulls about 5. Even in November at about 37 degrees latitude, there was enough from W of flat flex panels about 6 amps to charge things back up again by mid-day even while the fridge is left on.

I now have W of solar with a great MPPT charge controller and Ah of lithium ion batteries so I should be fine even for multiple days without sunshine. This graph shows the temperature over time both inside the fridge and in the RV.

Note how the temp varied over the course of Thursday climbing with the mild inside temp and then falling again overnight. The food kept cool and nothing froze in the refrigerator but it was disconcerting to see it sink to low temps overnight.

We raised the thermostat a little when we saw it had sunk to just under freezing while loaded overnight. If it really has a temperature-based thermostat, why does it keep running as the temperature keeps dropping? Update : I was always bothered by how the back of the Nova Kool was open to the surrounding cabinet but I since became aware that this was allowing in a huge air draft into the coach very obvious in windy conditions and was noticeably noisier when driving down the highway.

I decided to finally address this by pulling the darn thing out again and insulating both the refrigerator compartment as well as the rear of the unit around the compressor. See before and after photos below. I then used a bunch of leftover automative Thinsulate insulation from insulating the cab doors to line the walls and ceiling of the cabinet and stuff some in the gap between the refrigerator and freezer boxes.

I also stuffed loose pieces of insulation above and to the side of refrigerator as I slid it into place. Lastly, a bit of foam insulation glued across the gap along the top in the back of the refrigerator opening.

So the fridge stopped working. No matter how far I turned thermostat, the compressor would not kick in. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting power but the compressor would just not run anymore. I ended up pulling the fridge out entirely to try to figure out what was wrong. I was measuring around That measurement also eliminated the possibility of voltage drop due to insufficient wiring.

Well, interestingly enough, with the fridge pulled out of its compartment, the compressor started running normally again! Then I put the fridge back in and monitored it for the rest of the day and overnight.

Sorry, I forgot to take a picture after removing that false wall in the back. The compressor ran normally again, keeping the fridge nice and cold again. This also seemed to fix a strange fast cycling behavior I would often notice where the compressor would run for a few seconds, stop and then start up again and do this over and over again for minutes.

The Unity came with a Bauer EM keyless entry lock for the coach door. Well, sometime in , Bauer updated their lock and addressed some of these issues. So far, it does seem to be working well. As a bonus, I removed my little tape hack from the striker plate and it seems like the rubbing squeak is gone.

Replacing it is just a matter of removing six screws, pulling off the back half, disconnecting a wire lead, easing out the front half and then reversing all that for the new one.

What happens is it becomes impossible to lock the door either by turning the knob inside or the key outside. You sometimes have to bang on it repeatedly to get it to free up and allow you to turn and lock it. See video on the right. I contacted the manufacturer Bauer about the problem and linked to my demonstration video and was very happy to hear back from them soon after.

They sent me a redesigned replacement unit that addresses the problem that leads to the stuck dead bolt. It acts as a go-between the cellular devices in your vehicle and any nearby cell towers.

It comes with a small external antenna that should be mounted on a metal roof or at least on a small sheet of metal to act as a ground plane. The internal antenna is of course mounted inside.

So I tried this on a different trip and was surprised to see that it made quite a difference. In one location I tested my download speed and saw it go from 1. This and other test results was enough to convince me that it was worth permanently installing the WeBoost. So, I just used adhesive VHB tape to secure the antenna in the center of that area between my solar panels, without the additional sheet metal.

Easy peasy! I mounted the internal antenna with velcro in the entertainment cabinet where I also added some USB ports and a 12V port for the WeBoost. To make use of the WeBoost, I turn it on and I place my iPhone in the cabinet, right on top of the antenna.

Works great. If I really need to use the phone directly, I can stand near the cabinet or I can release the internal antenna and hold it against the phone. And lastly, I switched to Verizon from Sprint. As described in these threads, several potential upgrades are possible:. I decided to give them a try and just had them installed today. The Unity now seems more solid making turns on the highway or going around corners on city streets.

There seems to be less lateral sway movement than before. I also drove it on the highway up to 65 mph and did not feel any adverse effects. Not surprisingly, the bouncy, rocking motion over bumps or other uneven road surfaces remains the same as that is due to the stock shocks. The SumoSprings are actually replacements for the bumper stops and I believe they are designed to operate under partial compression.

SumoSprings are an inexpensive upgrade and it took less than an hour for a local shop to swap them in. As explained very well by someone more knowledgeable, frequently combining batteries with very different voltage levels can lead to premature failure of your batteries.

It protects for both under- and over-voltages on at Some of this is more than what you get with the more basic Trik-L-Start. Biggest hassle was really just getting to the starter battery under the floor and removing the passenger seat. Do make sure you follow the instructions though and disconnect the negative leads on both the start battery and the house battery as well as cover up your solar panels because it would be very difficult to even make the connection changes on this relay without accidentally touching multiple contacts in this tight space.

This is a cool find. They apparently run on their little watch batteries for upwards of a year. I put one in the coach and hung another underneath, next to the gray tank to watch for freezing temps and put still another in the fridge. Unlike typical wireless weather sensors, you can view the accumulated data over time and set alerts to be notified about exceeding a set range.

As an aside, this collapsible ladder is what I used to climb on the roof for my solar installation. I felt more comfortable climbing up through the skylight in the RV rather than climbing up over the edge on the outside with no one around to stabilize the ladder. Custom van conversions and European campervans will often create a platform bed that allows for bike storage inside and underneath, sometimes even with an awesome slide-out tray.

I wanted to try to stow them inside the vehicle somehow. I saw there are some fully enclosed bike bags which vary quite a bit in design and price but that means taking up a good chunk of the bedroom to stash a couple of bikes. Not exactly ideal. After trying it out, I can see why their design is certainly more sturdy and rigid. This is of course because the rear wall of the RV is vertical and does not slope away from the carrier like most vehicles.

This means that to use this rack on the back of the RV would require loosening the handlebars to rotate them away from striking the rear wall or finding something to protect both the bike and the RV.

Okay, I decided to cut open a tennis ball to fit it over the handlebar that would otherwise bang up against the back of the RV. This is working fine after weeks of driving.

It does however mean that the bikes get dirty particularly so on unpaved roads and so now prepping to ride means cleaning the chain, brushing off the gears, wiping down all the shock shafts, etc. To secure the bikes, I bought an eight-foot long, relatively difficult-to-cut chain from Abus with a loop link on the end as well as a Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 U-Lock and a secondary cable to secure the rack to the hitch mount.

I might get a double size bike cover to make them less noticeable when parked in a public area overnight. This is useful for making the most of your wash or rinse water but also for catching it for reuse when you want to stretch your use of your fresh water supply. For example, you could potentially keep it in the shower and reuse it to flush the toilet rather than using fresh water.

In fact, I make a habit of turning off the water pump most of the time when merely flushing urine. Also, having the wash basins is nice in freezing temps to avoid inadvertently sending water into your plumbing system.

I decided it would be nice to have a little portable grill along and so, after reading reviews of different models, I settled on the Weber Q — which, importantly, lets you grill with the cover closed and has a temperature gauge.

Like most grills, it comes with a high pressure regulator so that you can use those little one pound propane canisters. Be sure you actually do a leak check on the fittings you installed. I found a leak on mine until I tightened things up better. As for storing the grill, I had to do a little reorganization.

I was forced to use one of the undercarriage compartments. This means that you have to remove the lid and slide it in afterwards. Jump to the end of this section if you want to skip to what became my ultimate solution! Update : Many weeks later, I also found the largest, thickest nest inside the Onan propane generator!

I sealed up the cable opening in the inverter compartment with heavy adhesive tape and I plan to fill the opening in the back of the battery compartment with Great Stuff Pestblock Gap Filler. But the big fix was installing a well-reviewed, wired, noise-making rodent deterrent from Apesto for under the hood. I had to find where the majority of the wires pass through from the engine compartment to behind the dashboard.

I was finally able to feed some wire through from the engine compartment by first feeding a heavy, rigid length of Romex cable through the insulated opening and then feeding my 14 gauge power wire until it came out beneath the fuse box inside the cab.

I used an Add-a-Circuit fuse tap kit to connect it. Beware that some of these circuits only remain active for a few minutes after turning off the vehicle or the lights. I have it on the low setting because the high setting was quite obnoxiously loud even well away from the vehicle.

On the low setting, I only really hear it while standing immediately in front of the vehicle. Fingers crossed…. With all that and the powered, noise-making rodent deterrent — all good so far! Nope, not good at all. Going to try mothballs next…. I ended up stopping at a Mercedes dealer near Portland, Oregon while we were traveling and they had them in stock and gave me a part number: Presumably it would be easy enough to order it in the future, now that we have the part number.

And those retaining clips are tough too. You need to bend back a couple of teeth in order to work the thing off of the center pin on each one. Update again June : Still having mice intrusions! A couple of new things to deal with:. Guess how I found this out!

After cleaning it out and getting a new air filter installed, I created a makeshift barrier out of some metal wire mesh and stuffed it into the front of the intake. I fixed this like I did for the engine air intake: stuffing wire mesh into those big open pockets at the front of the hood.

Why the heck did the Mercedes engineers leave these air intakes so wide open to rodents?? Update June-October : The ultimate solution I arrived at: a walled rodent barrier around the RV and traps just in case. I ordered it in May and tested it over the summer and fall. Anyway, the upshot is this final system of a physical rodent barrier around the whole vehicle with traps as backups has been working. The few times I have caught anything in the traps has been during actual trips outside the barrier and during times when the barrier was disturbed before I secured things down with the rods and blocks.

I had to clear out the little drain to get rid of the collected water — something to check on regularly with the Sprinter van, I guess.

All the wires appear to be secure and it seems to make good contact but yet it works intermittently. Anyway, I tried stripping the wire insulation away to make better contact but then found it was really difficult to stuff two sets wires into there securely.

So, I ended up just swapping out the outlet for a normal residential outlet with screw down connection points and within a plastic electrical box. All good now and the other two outlets down the line now work. Well, that was strange. This was the most serious failure yet: the Onan propane generator would run but it would not deliver any electricity. I remember testing the microwave off the generator when I first checked out the vehicle before buying it from the owner.

Many months later though was the first time we tried to use the microwave and thus the generator for something. Later, I plugged in shore power and, sure enough, everything worked fine, including the microwave. All the breakers were on, including the breaker on the generator itself and resetting them did nothing to help.

Inspecting inside the access panel of the generator, I found that there was a great deal of rodent nesting material stuffed in the generator. I ended up bringing in the Unity to a local RV service center in Santa Cruz and sure enough, it turned out to be the transfer switch. All they did to get it going again was push on the contactor plate inside the transfer switch box. Down is for power from the generator and up is for shore power.

You can see it move as you engage or disengage the generator. Just move that contactor with something non-conductive to set it free if it gets stuck for some reason like mine did. The problem is that the button snaps shear off and break after a few months of usage. So, I decided to install a very strong magnet to hold the door open.

This is one of those super magnets with a center hole for a screw. I removed the strap from the wall and used one of the existing holes to secure a large metal washer for the magnet to hold to.

Seems to work well. By removing the lower nightstand drawer and cutting a hole in the hidden wall between the inside of the nightstand and the outer storage area, the cats now have free access to the external storage area that extends all the away around and under both twin beds. So the litter box can be placed in a corner of the storage area, completely out-of-sight!

I first found a nice wired low amperage LED courtesy light , but then I found dozens of these little battery-operated, motion-sensing LED lights that can run for most of a year on a single charge. I chose this one , just 15 lumens and mounted it above the partition so that it lights up with motion from either side. The twin bed model of the Unity has a Dometic toilet with a built-in macerator. This is necessary because the floorplan places the bathroom mid-way inside the van, rather than directly over the black tank.

I think the main problem is that not enough water is added at the initiation of the flush. Instead it seems to come in too slowly and too late. The trick is to take over when and how much water comes with the flush. Through lots of trial and error we have worked out a system that works though and, as it happens, saves water to boot.

First off, we keep a one-gallon, plastic water jug in the bathroom to essentially manually flush. The point is that you want to be able to manually add water as needed when you flush the toilet. Secondly, we always make sure the water pump is turned off before flushing. So, with urine only, just flush without the pump turned on. You can of course add a little water with the jug while flushing when you want the bowl rinsed out.

Flushing without the water pump turned on has the added benefit of not leaving a bunch of water in the toilet that could splash out while driving. For solid waste, before you start the flush, make sure the bowl is reasonably full like half full of water.

Have the water jug in hand when you start the flush and then immediately add a good amount of water to start everything down the drain properly.

After that flush completes, you may find you need to flush a second time again, with the pump turned off and follow with a bit more water. Instead of flushing again and again to no avail, you get it done in one or two tries. Freeze Damage — The most important consideration is avoiding freezing damage from your plumbing. While the freshwater tank and system is in the interior of the van, the gray and blackwater waste tanks are most definitely not.

The exterior shower is also of course vulnerable to freezing. The safest approach is to fully winterize your plumbing system using RV anti-freeze and just not use your plumbing system at all. Some of us make occasional use of our toilet like in the middle of the night! The floors are pretty well insulated, but a fuzzy blanket or rug can make it all the more comfy for pets and humans alike in cold weather.

What you see here is actually a fake fur duvet cover with a thick comforter stuffed inside. It also makes a great way to insulate the cold leaking in from the bottom of the coach door and battery compartment under the steps.

With the windows, we cut slits to fit it over the window knobs and added velcro tape where necessary to keep it flush. One is to try cutting some of the Reflectix to just fit inside the window frames rather than over the frames.

This might help prevent warm air from reaching the cold glass and condensing. The other thing to try is this 3M window film insulator you can buy to temporarily put over the inside of the windows for the cold season to accomplish the same thing.

The cab area is not particularly well-insulated, even with the windows covered. We might find and sacrifice a nicer looking blanket to hang in its place. Darlene jokes that we should get one with the image of a fireplace on it — to inspire warm thoughts. Anyway, the results were immediately obvious. Without the blanket in place, we watched a movie using the cab seats one evening in cold weather and always felt a cold draft even while the furnace ran frequently trying to keep up.

Then afterwards, and on subsequent nights, we hung the blanket and found the gallery area stayed noticeably warmer and the furnace ran much left often. In fact, in combination with the added window insulation, I found the bedroom area started around 69 F at 10 pm when we turned down the furnace to go to sleep. It took all night to reach about 53 F just before 6 am. It is surprising, but we do have some tricks to lower prices without hindering quality.

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