All the best to you, Kent. Thanks in advance for your help. Burnish the surface well with the steel wool after each coat cures. Wood Glue Type Most decent quality wood glues should work. The handmade wooden salad bowl is extremely durable that lasts longer than ordinary wooden kitchen accessories.

And after hours come back and buff it out with a clean cloth. I use this product on delicate thin turned pieces and it works great. Thanks Kent…. From the video, it looks like this finish is probably a good consistency for my carvings.

Thanks again….. I use them interchangeably and they blend perfectly. The finish will add a bit of warm color to the wood. My son in law is making a small table for my grandchildren to eat on when they are at my house.

I need something to put on the wood to keep it looking Best Wood For Turning Salad Bowls 30 nice in the face of, well, grandchildren eating and playing on it! Will this product work or is there something different I should use? I have been researching but frankly I am starting to get confused. I am also a novice at doing this kind of project. Thanks in advance for your help. Yes, this product will work great. Also, if the grandchildren damage the wood somehow, simply sand out the damaged area and reapply this finish.

It will blend in and match without any effort. Hopefully, the grandkids will be kind. Can I spray lacquer over tried and true? This does not have to be food safe for the use intended. Thank you. Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. Because of this, the surface will not shine or appear glossy.

In order to appear glossy, micropores and crevasses needed to filled and made smooth so the surface reflects light. The best way to get a glossy finish is to apply several thin layers of lacquer. You can apply lacquer over Tried and True Danish linseed only Oil without any problems.

I have sprayed it over Tried and True original and have had good results for the most part. However, the beeswax can potentially repeal the lacquer. Here are a few comments that might help. You read that right. It is no joke. Some people keep a jar of water nearby and put the finish-soaked rags in the water.

The problem with that is Best Wood For Turning Salad Bowls Lite how do you dispose of the finish-water in a responsible way? Sure Tried and True may be okay, but what about other oil finishes with metallic driers or other undesirable chemicals?

My solution is to put the oily rags outside on an isolated paving stone, put a rock on them to hold them down. Leave the rags for several days until they are completely dry, then put them in the trash. You can use gray 3M or gray other-brand abrasive pads in the place of steel wool.

The abrasive pads look like kitchen cleaning scrub pads, only gray instead of green. The green pads are too abrasive compared with the gray ones. Steel wool can leave bits of steel behind in the wood to rust and leave dark spots. The gray abrasive pads do not. I use both, but tend to favor the gray pads. If you buy steel wool, consider Liberon or Briwax brands of steel wool.

They are oil-free, and less likely to stain or leave spots on your wood. You can buy the gray pads at Home Depot, Lowes, and other household hardware stores. Woodworking stores sell them too. I found the Liberon steel wool at Rockler.

Woodcraft sells Briwax steel wool. You can buy Tried and True finish in quart cans at Rockler and Woodcraft stores, and probably other regional and local woodworking stores. You can find Rockler and Woodcraft stores in many states in the US. Rockler carries both Original and Varnish Oil. I know, because I bought them both at a Rockler store. The difference is subtle at best. Sometimes it is more about the texture, where finishes with beeswax seem to have a more natural feel. Some oil finishes tend to darken the wood more than others, but the difference is not that pronounced.

I have asked finishing experts and they do not understand why some products cost so much. Ultimately, it comes down to how much you buy into the hype of the expensive brands, the effort it takes to apply and burnish, in some cases , the number of coats required, the time it takes to cure, the safety factors, and personal preference. Thanks for your detailed input. Yes, I do think it is the beeswax texture that makes the Tried and True Original Finish my favorite as well.

What would recommend using to make it as water resistant or waterproof as possible? Thanks Kim. There are resin products made by West Marine that come highly recommended. Although I have not used them myself yet, I would consider them to be best suited for your project.

Let me know if this helps. Great article! I have been using Tried and True Original Wood Finish and also Tried and True Danish Oil either together or alone for the past 6 months and they both provide a great finish. Simple and clean to use and virtually no clean up. The product is available in Canada through Lee Valley Tools.

Hi I wanted to use it for copper plate to protect from tarnish especially in rainy seasons. I am in Delhi India where pollution is high affecting copper utensils , and let me know if anything available in India or any sample I can get in India. Thanks Dave. Thanks for writing. Hi, great article. I would like to know if this finish will seal end-grain turned cups? Would hot drinks melt the seal? End grain cups are a challenge to seal because of the grain direction.

Tried and True also makes a natural Varnish product which includes pine resins. I would think that might work better. I would imagine the liquid will dissolve or breakdown the finish.

Experiment and find out. And like every turning project, the wood species will play a major factor as well. The finish of Tried and True Original is not a high-gloss shine.

Experiment and see if it works. Let me know what you find. Thanksfor yourmessage concerning food dafe fonish. Have you heard otherwise? I too have heard that finishes once dry can be food safe. However, my concern is the toxicity of the finishes before they dry and the assumption that they become food safe just by drying. Also, what happens when finishes are chipped and allow moisture and bacteria to form under and around the cracks? Hospitalization will most likely not be the problem.

The potential issue is health conditions that are formed or aggravated by exposure to toxic substances. These will be much more subtle and potentially not be obviously linked to the source. Thanks for leaving your comment. I am sharing your article on my pinterest so word spreads. Thanks for your comment, Charlie.

Great article Kent. I really hate wasting costly finishes. It really hurts to toss it. Tried and True does not skin over. When it gets cold, they will congeal a bit but they return to fluid when it gets warmer.

This also keeps the larger amount of the Tried and True protected from contaminants, etc. Never thought about it for my bowls. And yes, it works great on bowls. Follow the directions, especially for the initial coat, 24 hours dry time and burnishing. While that will work, following the steps makes a big improvement in the final results! I am making a tea mug out of olive and sealed a couple of cracks with a mixture of sawdust and CA glue.

It sounds like the Tried and True is exactly what I am needing to seal the wood safely. The curing time should be on the bottle of CA. If not, contact the manufacturer with your question just to be sure. Kent, I have been unable to get the shine you have achieved after two coats of Tried and True and more effort with steel wool than I wanted to give.

Do you power buff the stuff? I want some sheen. What type of wood are your using and how dry is it? The key is to put only a very thin layer on and let it sit for one hour, then wipe it off.

After 24 hours then burnish the surface with steel wool. The sheen can be quite rich but is not a gloss. It is more of a satin finish. Thanks for sharing. Would you recommend this for wooden spoons as well?

I read somewhere that spoons need to be soaked first. Can you soak with linseed oil, and then finish with the Tried and True Original? Yes, this would work great for spoons. You can also use just the linseed oil, called Tried and True Danish Oil. This can be applied repeatedly until the wood it saturated and then you can apply a final coat of Tried and True with Beeswax. Thank you for this article! I am looking to turn a small table into a large butcher block and prep surface.

I would suggest emailing the manufacturer to confirm [email protected] and mention you heard about there product here. I read some reviews on the selling site that some people found the odor very strong and objectionable.

How would you describe the odor and how long does it linger in your shop after applying the material? I work in our attached garage and my wife says anything I am using there can be smelled in the house. I guess everyone smells differently. Would this work on a wood table that I want to refurbish as a bread bakers bench? Also… there is one crack in the table top that I would like to fill. What compound would you recommend that would also be compatible with the oil and the intended purpose for the table?

Thanks for any info. Yes, this finish will work well for such a table. I would use very fine sawdust from the same wood, if possible and combine that with regular yellow wood glue to fill the crack.

You can actually begin to sand the mixture, with a fine or sandpaper, as soon as it is pressed into the crack. Let the area dry and sand completely smooth.

Then apply the Tried and True finish as directed. I am just getting interested in learning how to turn wood. I am in North Carolina. Is there a WoodTurners Association? I need to find a class???? Need some direction. Your information has been most helpful. Have already ordered my Tried and True. Look forward to hearing from you. Check out their website for more details. I have yet to get through even a small can of Salad Bowl finish General Finishes before it becomes unusable.

Tried and True does not go bad to my knowledge. I have had a small amount in the jar get gummy, but I think that was due to cold, and it returned to normal once warmed. Interesting fact.

Also be sure to read this article about Salad Bowl Finish. Username or Email Address. Remember Me. Brian, Thanks for writing and good question.

Luke, It might work, but it will depend on the type and grain of the wood being used. Hello Collette, I would recommend not to use the poly. All the best to you, Kent.

Thank you and welcome! Andrea, Thanks for writing and good question. I would experiment with a sample like you mentioned. That is the only way to truly know. All the best, Kent. Thanks, Kent. Thanks, Nick. Hey Nick, Thanks for the question. I hope that helps. Elisa, Thanks for writing. Luke, Sounds good. Let me know what you think. Hello James, Thanks for the question. Thanks again, Kent. James, Thanks for your question. Hello Karen, Yes, this product will work great.

LOL Thanks for the question, Kent. Hello Brian, Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. And the lacquer is food safe once it cures. Emory, Thanks for your detailed input. Enjoy and Happy Turning, Kent. Hello Dave, Thanks for writing. I will contact the manufacturer and see what they say and then I will let you know more. Stay tuned, Kent. Tony W. Let me know what you find out. Thanks for your comment.

Hi Rick, Thanks for taking the time to write. Thanks and Happy Turning, Kent. Thanks for writing, Kent. Kent, Thanks for your comprehensive review of Tried and True finish, I am making a tea mug out of olive and sealed a couple of cracks with a mixture of sawdust and CA glue. Do you know if the Tried and True finish will seal any toxicity that the CA may have? Andy, Thanks for your comment. Remember, part of this trick is to raise dust during the sanding process.

That dust coats and covers the glue to make it blend in with the rest of the bowl surface. As you prepare the area, be sure dust is coming up delicate and fine, and this trick should work well.

So there you have it, a super fast bowl crack fix. Have I convinced you to put ugly yellow wood glue on your beautiful wood bowl? Let me know if you use this technique or if you plan to give it a try. Please leave a comment below. Fixing and taking care of bowls is important.

It works well. Do you prefer hand sanding after wiping off the glue? I tend to use abranet myself. It really speeds things up.

Check out my Instagram shtanto. And I like to hand sand because I can focus the sanding to just the area of the glue while keeping the sanding direction in-line with the wood grain. The sanding action will create fine dust and seal the top of the glued surface. Kent, The isssue with the above technique is that it is a surface fix you mentioned that it is to be applied after most bowl work is completed. The issue is that that also assumes that the crack is stable.

By adding one more step the crack reopening issue will be better mitigated. Get a small shop vac. If the crack is through and through apply the glue to outside of the crack while holding the vac slit nozzle in contact with the inside surface of the crack. Turn on the vac and begin to apply the glue. You will see the glue disappearing into Best Wood For Turning Salad Bowls 60 the crack. It will be sucked through the whole thickness of the wood coating both interior surfaces. Now you have glue holding the entire crack as opposed to just the surface.

This is a more stable repair. If the crack does not go totally through place the crevice nozzle over a section of the crack, turn on the vac and proceed as per above applying the glue to the crack beyond the nozzle. Again you will see the glue disappear into the crack. Now follow with the sanding procedure as above. This technique works for all types of glue. One additional point if the crack is large use Gorilla glue.

This glue expands as it dries and fills the crack. To use it effectively moisten the two sides of the crack prior Best Wood For Turning Salad Bowls Mask to application of the glue as it is water activated and is VERY strong. If gluing green wood no moisture is required as the wood supplies its own moisture. Practice with this before using as it expands quite a bit and before using the sanding technique you need to let the glue expand most of the way about 10 minutes. When sanding a bowl I sometimes place a sheet of paper towel on the bed ways and bench top to catch the fine sanding dust.

After sanding I dump the dust into the old 35mm film cans I saved from my photography days. Any small container would work. This gives me a ready supply of dust to mix with epoxy, etc. Well done! Username or Email Address. Remember Me. Skeptical Let me tell you, I was very skeptical about using regular wood glue on my wooden bowls.

But I needed a good quick bowl crack fix to repair small minor cracks. Now, I think this wood glue technique is fantastic!

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