Like our previous WoodRiver® Bench Hand Planes, our version 3 is based on the reliable Bedrock design and feature heavy, stress-relieved ductile iron castings, fully machined adjustable frogs and high carbon steel blades. Lightly finished hardwood. Showing the minimum setup necessary for a plane to function at a working level. Sorry about the sound quality. I set up closed captioning so you can read what you can't hear.  For the controlled removal of wood few things have the versatility of the common plane. The goal is to hold the blade at a controlled angle to the wood and limit the depth that the blade can penetrate the surface. Set the blade for a heavy cut and it can tear off a millimeter at a time. Wood Planes Made Easy. Make a smoothing plane to rival the best metal ones on the market. By David Finck #–Jan/Feb Issue. Synopsis: Make a wood plane and it will reward you with flat, gleaming wood surfaces and an unmatched planing experience. Make it the way David Finck does, and you’ll be surprised how easy it is. Wood planes offer great value. They far exceed the quality and performance of less-expensive metal planes, and you can build several of them for the price of one high-end plane. I use the edge of my granite block for this, wood plane setup change direction often to ensure I get a surface as flat as possible. With the lever loosened, tighten the screw until it holds the blade and chip breaker snugly in place, then snap the lever down and test the ease of adjustment. Well written. Listen carefully, once the wedge is setip the tone will deaden — I spent a long time trying to adjust a plane without any joy only for Richard to inform me that I had the wood plane setup far too tight for my adjustments to be effective. Ron McDermid says:. Or you can look directly into the mouth from wood plane setup bottom of the plane to judge whether the blade is the same distance from the mouth edge on both sides. Chip Breakers or Cap Irons can be set in a variety of ways.

In other words, a smoother will be different than a jack and so forth, but it even goes further than that. At what stage your planing with your smoother will make a difference also.

How you do this depends on the design of the frog, but make sure the blade can slide freely through the opening. Some plane designs allow you to slide the frog forward to close the mouth opening, but some leave to much of the plane unsupported and it may chatter.

Let the chip breaker do the work. Make sure it never goes beyond the blade if the blade is a little uneven or cambered. Here is a blog on setting the chip breaker. Step 4 — Pop a Lever Cap on that Sucka While appearances and designs vary greatly, all planes have some sort of lever cap. The lever cap provides the tension that holds the iron in place.

Just ensure that the contact edge on its back side is reasonably flat, so it makes flush contact with the cap iron on which it sits. Wood shavings will find their way through the tiniest of gaps. You might also add a drop of oil to the working joints to ensure smooth operation.

On block planes, since there is no cap iron, the lever cap plays a more important role. Take a fine file to the back side and remove any rough spots, giving close attention to the leading contact edge. The back sides of these caps are notoriously rough and unfortunately japanned. File it smooth and give it a couple of swipes across your grit stone. The simply fact is, even with brand new planes, the irons require final honing before use.

This is not due to some lack of attention on the part of manufacturers. Irons are provided this way on purpose, since the manufacturer has no way of knowing what you will be using the plane for, and subsequently how the iron would need to be honed. If you do nothing else in the way of tuning your plane, at least take the time to properly sharpen it. Do not skip this step! Sharpen the iron. Again, sharpen the iron!

Sharpen it! Since sharpening is such an expansive topic in and of itself, I will leave the specific details for other posts. What you need to know in the context of tuning, however, is that any plane, new or old, requires initial sharpening and honing. At a minimum, new plane irons need to have their un-beveled side honed flat and polished to at least grit and preferably grit.

You also need to put a final honing on the bevel edge itself. It may look sharp, but it needs to be honed, again, to at least grit. The goal is to get your cutting edge to as close as possible to a zero degree radius. Sharpening is too often the deal breaker that dissuades woodworkers from trying hand tools. This in unfortunate, for it requires little monetary investment to get started, is not particularly difficult to learn, and can be accomplished rather quickly with surprisingly good results.

For detailed information on sharpening, I recommend investing in one of the outstanding books on the subject by Ron Hock or Leonard Lee. Chris Schwarz has also written a number of fantastic articles on sharpening plane irons. Hopefully, you have a better understanding of what each part does and how they all function together.

This will make adjusting it for use, and while in use, more intuitive and fluid. In other words, to adjust its position, you will have to loosen the screws that attach it to the base. Without getting into detail, use a larger mouth opening for thicker cuts, and a smaller mouth opening for fine shavings.

Set the position of the frog where you want it and screw it down tight, understanding you may need to do this a couple of times before you get to just the right position.

The cap iron should be firmly screwed to the iron, leaving just a tiny edge of the iron protruding forward. This too, may take a couple of tries before you get the feel of it. Holding the plane upside down, and looking down the sole at a low angle, lower the iron until it just begins to appear through the mouth — just a whisper.

Just turn it until you begin to feel resistance. Make any lateral adjustments necessary using the lateral adjustment lever that extends from the top of the frog. Turn it upright and make a test pass on a piece of scrap wood. If the plane digs in, back off the depth just a bit. If it misses entirely, lower the iron a little.

On block planes, adjustments for use are a simple matter of properly tensioning the lever cap and setting the throat opening via the front adjustment plate if the plane has one.

The same principles apply that you use in adjusting your bench planes. Tuning a hand plane is not a difficult endeavor. Once practiced, the whole process can be accomplished in about a half hour, even less depending on the tool. Rather than view it as an unpleasant chore, I actually enjoy it, especially later in the evening when the dust has settled and the world is quiet. Tools shown in the photos were returned to functional condition by Virginia Toolworks using museum quality archival preservation techniques.

Sharpened and tuned for use, every tool is fully tested and adjusted until perfect. Like Like. The short answer is cast iron is relatively soft. It can distort and warp, even if ever so slightly, especially when there is tension or internal stresses in the metal. When metal is annealed, the microstructure of the metal is altered, making it more ductile.

When metal is hardened, the opposite effect is achieved, adding tension and making it more brittle. Tool makers have to find the right balance between strength and flexibility. If a plane body was made too hard, it would be less likely to distort but more likely to break if dropped.

A hundred years ago, this was not the case. If you have one that you are convinced is too out of true to be usable, best to replace it. Could always be a replacement from another plane. The smaller plane is actually a plow plane, not a dado.

It is indeed missing its iron. The maker was L. Several manufacturers offer replacement blades in a variety of widths to fit older Stanleys, Records and other brands.

Some blades are as much as 25 percent thicker than the original blades and use modern steels, including both A2 and 01 steel. Replacement chipbreakers are also available.

Thicker blades reduce the likelihood of chatter and offer greater stability, but they may require adjustments to the frog or even the size of the mouth opening to accommodate the greater thickness.

Available blades vary in thickness, so take this into account when purchasing. A thickness of. Replacement chipbreakers in particular may be thicker than the original parts and may not fit older planes. Check with the manufacturer before ordering.

Highland Woodworking carries Stanley replacement blades and chipbreakers. Set the Mouth Opening. While the lion's share of attention goes to getting a keen edge on the blade, several other steps will help you get the best from your plane. One is adjusting the mouth opening. On a bevel down plane, this is achieved by moving the frog forward or Wood River Plane Setup Vpn backward until the opening is slightly wider than the thickness of the desired shaving.

For smoothing planes, very fine shavings are the goal so you will want to set a very narrow gap. The opening can be wider for jointers and wider still for jack planes set up to take thick shavings when roughing out a board. Set the frog with the blade in place and slightly projected.

On planes based on the Stanley Bedrock model, which includes Lie-Nielsen planes , adjust the opening by loosening the two screws on either side of the depth adjustment wheel. Then advance or retract the frog as necessary by turning the large screw located between the two locking screws.

Once the frog is adjusted, loosely tighten the locking screws, remove the blade and sight down the frog to the mouth to Woodworking Plane Setup confirm that the frog is perfectly square to the mouth.

Then tighten the locking screws alternately and gradually until tight. Don't over tighten them to avoid stripping the threads. The more common Bailey-style planes have a Wood River Plane Setup 01 slightly different screw arrangement—two locking screws located under the blade-chipbreaker assembly and an adjusting screw at the rear of the frog. This means you may have to insert and remove the blade and chipbreaker assembly several times until you get the mouth set the way you want it.

Otherwise, the adjustment process is the same as for Bedrock-style planes. Some newer planes—including block planes and other bevel-up planes—are built with adjustable mouths. Usually the mouth is loosened by turning a lever at the base of the toe, then sliding the mouth assembly forward or backward to obtain the desired opening. Adjust the Chipbreaker.

The chipbreaker on a bevel down plane should also be set so the distance from the blade edge is slightly more than the width of the shavings you intend to make. The distance will vary for individual planes set up to achieve different results.

Bevel up planes, of course, have no chipbreakers and need no such adjustment. Adjust the Cap Iron Pressure. The cap iron should hold the blade and chip breaker firmly to eliminate chatter but not so tightly that the depth adjuster can't be easily moved with two fingers. With the lever loosened, tighten the screw until it holds the blade and chip breaker snugly in place, then snap the lever down and test the ease of adjustment.

Once you've achieved the right amount of pressure, leave the screw alone and remove the iron by raising the lever. Set the Depth Adjuster. Now we come to the business end of the adjustments, where the metal meets the wood. On most planes, you turn the depth adjustment wheel clockwise Wood River Plane Setup 001 to deepen the cut and counterclockwise to retract it. However, there are exceptions. I recently came upon an old Crusader where the depth adjuster was turned in the opposite direction, so check your plane to see which rule applies.

Unfortunately, because of the unavoidable condition of backlash—excess play in the wheel adjustment—setting the blade depth so it does not slip in place requires a little more technique. The rule is to finish all depth adjustments with a downward, usually clockwise, movement of the wheel. Failing to keep downward pressure leaves the blade in a loose condition that lets it slip, and you can quickly lose the adjustment you just carefully set.

Thus, if the blade is set too deep, back it off by turning the wheel counterclockwise until the blade is fully retracted.

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