Blade for my shoulder plane? Hand scrapers? Blades for Stanley Hand Plane Replacement Blades Edition my Jointer/Planer/etc?  Blades for Stanley #40 Scrub Plane and #10 Rabbet Plane. High Carbon Tool Steel (O1) only. #40 Blade (scrub plane) 1/8" x /4" x 6" w//8" radius #BP $ Buy Now. #10 Blade ("jack rabbet") #BP $ Buy Now. #10 Breaker (not shown) #BK $ Buy Now. 3/4" Tee Blade (from our shoulder plane kits) #SH $ Buy Now. Blades and breakers for # There are two style of the # compass planes -- old and older. The old ones have the blade adjuster in front of the tote, similar to a standard bench plane. On the older ones the adjuster is a wh. Order online at - General purpose plane, ideal for crafts and all light duty jobs. Cutter rests at a 20° angle, ideal for cross-grain planing. It has machined sides and the cutter is fully adjustable for depth cut and alignment. Cast-iron base with precision-ground sides and bottom. Durable epoxy coating provides long lasting protection. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 5 minutes.  Hi, I require a new blade for my Stanley block plane. It has large chips in it so beyond sharpening. Where can I aquire a new one? Thanks. Asked by: Chippy Hi there, if your plane lookd identical to the one on Screwfix model Then the newest replacement iron code would be (If yours looks an older model you will need to source spare iron). €. 6" (mm) long. Fitted with replaceable fine-cut blade. May 28, I think you can order from 1 to m, the company Satellit Proffesen will cut to length and dispatch to you or perhaps you are close and can collect in person. I note that you have explored different ways of positioning to suit your stalney station requirements. Princy Vargas I am a hobbyist of woodworking and do all my home stanley plane blades screwfix exe on my own. Or maybe a visit to youtube on the subject.

ChrisM , Oct 9, I'd go with the Irwin. I-Man , Oct 9, I don't carry a bench plane with me any more but do have an Axminster Rider low angle block plane which gets used a lot.

It needed a bit of fettling out of the box and it was expensive by some standards but it's nice to use. I could have spent considerably more as well Of the two you've suggested I agree about the Irwin.

WillyEckerslike , Oct 9, Thanks Gents. Irwin are decent but needs a bit of work on the blade, old faithful block planes are also decent, again needs work on the blade, my old faithful is my go to for end grain and small shaving jobs, it feels right in the hand compared to the Irwin for me. A good set of sharpening stones go a long way into turning a new plane into a useable plane because factory sharp blades are anything but sharp, same with chisels, blunt as bread out of the box.

Tuxmark2 , Oct 9, Well I am going to a tool sharpening course in 2 weeks so I will take the brand new tool for sharpening I want to learn as I currently think I do more blade damage than sharpen it!! Hi Guys. Over the years I have purchased older wood chisels at boot sales. Your email address will not be published. Princy Vargas I am a hobbyist of woodworking and do all my home projects on my own. But it requires time, efforts, and of course, the best tools.

After researching and reviewing a lot of carpentry products, I get to know that the benchtop jointer is a useful tool to enhance the lumber without creating much shred. For the people like me and those who are professionals, I created the best benchtop jointer. Go and check my site to ease your woodworking projects. Related Articles. August 25, August 21, May 28, March 13, Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.

Check Also Close. Follow makers instructions carefully…do not be over enthusiastic with this stuff…by design the product melts the tube surface so apply only to the parts of the tube that are not seen as they sit inside the sleeves of the centre box.. For readers in the UK here are 2 examples one on the left from Screwfix, the one on the right from Toolstation. One thing though, This stuff is great and will seal everything really nicely..

PVC solvent cement if you want to be really fancy.. If you build both antennas Civil and Military dont be surprised if the civil one outperforms the dedicated mil air version in the area of mhz up to around mhz, at this frequency the civil bazooka behaves like a full wave folded dipole, the Military one is a half wave or there abouts.

If mounting externally, It is a good idea to drill a drain hole into the bottom bung and leave free air to circulate inside the tube, I used a 10mm hole but I didnt include the details in the write up , thanks to Adam from Australia for pointing this out. You may decide that 10mm is too large and you may want to try mm or so, big enough for the ambient air to circulate and for water to drain. You may be in a cold location where ice is an issue, in this case a bigger hole would be more difficult to ice over ,seal up and cause problems.

If you build one of these, use the comments box below to let me know how the build went for you and more importantly the performance of this antenna against your normal station rx antenna. He had seen this article and decided to construct the outdoor version using 3 pieces of tube as shown at the top of this page but interestingly he made some adjustments to my original plan.

Adam came up with some small design changes which I think are significant and well thought out so I asked him to write about his findings and contribute to this page. As you can see from his photos in the section below,Adam has a nice little antenna farm going on over there in Melbourne, over to you VK3SWL for your report..

I used a 3 way electrical junction box in the centre, so I could make mast mounting easier. The PVC conduit is 25mm grey, so a little larger diameter would have loved black like yours but cannot find any locally.

As previously mentioned, I used some bubble wrap around the co-ax element ends to keep it from rattling in the pipe. Instead of drilling the junction box lid for the SO socket, I drilled the rear of the junction box and mounted the socket there keeping the lead lengths to the co-axial elements as short as possible.

Actually the braid of one element is soldered straight to the ground lug on the SO and a small piece of RG inner core 1 strand was used to connect the other element Replacement Stanley Plane Blades Year to the centre pole of the SO Then the whole inner connections of the antenna were flooded potted? Once happy with the pipe lengths over the elements, I glued the pipe into the centre junction box.

Also drilled a 3mm hole in the lower end cap, since I had noticed condensation in there when I was testing the antenna on a portable mast for about a week. The end caps have also been glued on with hot melt to seal it all up nicely and keep out the spiders.

The co-ax is cable tied along the aluminium tube to the mast. Also glued an end cap on the aluminium mount tube too. The connection to the SO socket has been bound in 3M self-amalgamating rubber tape and covered over in electrical tape. I later thought that it might have been a good idea to mount the SO inside the junction box and have the coax run inside the aluminium tube to keep the connection out of the weather.

I have mounted the dipole up as high as can be done without it encroaching on the Diamond X vertical above it. It is around 6 metres of the ground and offset just under 1 metre from the mast. While the mast was down it is a tilt over mast which bolts to the side of the house brick wall I decided to replace the ageing RG that was feeding an old VHF folded dipole. The folded dipole was tuned for Mhz so not really much good on airband, so down it came.

Coaxial cable is now LL, which is the same physical size as RG, but is semi rigid, double shielded and has a solid inner conductor. Much less loss than RG and has a better outer sheath material which will withstand the searing Australian sun better. The dipole has been up on the mast for a little over a week now, and is performing very well. There is now a good couple of S points difference between the dipole and the discone with the dipole outperforming the discone.

My location is 22Km south west of the city of Melbourne, with Tullamarine Melbourne airport about 35Km to my north. The airport is slightly lower in elevation compared to me 14m HASL so it is difficult to receive ground traffic.

I can just hear ground traffic now on the dipole, compared to just noise on the discone. I am still in the process of comparing results to the Diamond DJ, but can say without doubt, the dipole is a much better performer! A really worthwhile project, that can be built for very little if any money and performs very well! My intention now is to build another one for field use and maybe one cut for the Mhz PMR band.

I had not thought about drilling the rear of the box for the SO, the PVC is much thicker and stronger there. Using a shorter link between the SO and elements, flooding the junction from the lid side with hot melt glue and the drilling of a drain hole were good modifications. I drilled a larger 10mm hole but in Australia I dont suppose you have to worry about ice build up.. So using this build , Adam found 2 or 3 S-points improvement over his much more expensive Diamond D discone which is mounted slightly higher on the mast.

Dont want to make your own airband antenna? Check out these options from UK based Superyagi antennas. SuperYagi Airband Antenna. I built one of these over Easter using some old RG and 25mm electrical conduit that was in the garage. Same design cut for Mhz. Put it up on a temporary telescopic mast in the back yard, at a around 4.

Ran 15 meters of old RG from the antenna to the shack. It works very well indeed, outperforming a Diamond discone at 7m above ground and fed with LMR What a difference a tuned antenna makes! Cannot wait to get it up on the mast fed with proper low loss coax! I plan to drill a small drain hole in the bottom leg end cap. Oh and added some bubble wrap inside to keep the elements from rattling!

Great article on an understated antenna design! Hi Adam, Nice to hear that you have built the civil airband mhz version and that even in its temporary position it outperforms a much more expensive Diamond Discone on the AM airband.

Sorry about that! I will correct the text this weekend, thanks for pointing that out. On the rattle issue, I chose 20mm conduit which is a bit more forgiving than the 25mm you had to work with but nice idea on the bubble wrap recylce. Thanks for the comments and your interest in my blog site.

Oh and Adam,.. Nice call sign btw! Regards, Mike. Just made my first tuned Dipole using the instructions for Mil Air, tuned at mhtz. Really easy to make and so far great reception. Just strapped to the fence in the back garden, sitting Plane Blades Stanley in the sun listening to lots of air to air etc. Used RG and fed it with some 75ohm satellite coax I had in the garage. Going to feed it with some RG58 once I have re-rigged the yagi in the loft with new rg8.

Hi Adam, Another 1st time builder and another success by the sounds of it. I would stick with the satellite coaxial feeder as its probably miles better specs than rg Well done Adam and Thanks for writing in. Hi Mike, I am about to build one of these, however I intend to use a three way conduit box to allow for a horizontal boom to mount the antenna on a mast, my question is, is there reason you could not run the feeder inside the horizontal boom and terminate it directly to the centre points of the dipole rather than use an external SO socket?

I just thought that may be a better solution with regard to weather proofing for an external mounting? Hi Neil, Great to hear that you are making one of these.

As to your suggestion about using a 3 way conduit box aka: tee box , yes indeed you can. It was in fact my first thought to make an outdoor mast mounted version, I did have an original plan and I built it, see below. This was the version which I first drilled the 10mm drain hole in the bottom bung as this was to be mounted outside at the mercy of the UK weather.

See Reader Comment 1 in on this page. Now I drill this hole anyway for loft hanging 2 way box or outside mount 3 way tee box versions. As to soldering the termination without pl connector, fine but that may make it difficult to do any repairs an so on but you are right it does save on the connector and save you the fiddly little job of making a nice job of the drill hoes in the box lid.

The pvc conduit isnt very forgiving to those who are over enthusiastic with that spanner. The sharp edges of the U bolt brackets can crimp the tube flat, weaken the whole structure and crush the coaxial cable sitting inside the tube. A word on the PVC tube, manufacturers specs vary wildly, I used Tower for the example in the article, this company used to make great conduit back in the day but now it has the thinnest wall of any type I have tried.

The conduit used in the article came from a company here in the UK Home Depot style store called Screwfix. The thickest tube I found elsewhere was manufactured by Marhall Tufflex and Mita which you can buy from electrical wholesalers.

The one I made in the article was for loft mounting, its easy to move it around or disconnect for maintenance and in respect to the Military version especially, easy to throw in the car and take out for a days spotting.

Nice to hear from you Neil, and Thanks so much for dropping by my blog site. Your comments are much appreciated. Most diy dipole designs ive seen have isolated up and down sections. How can this design function with a short at each end?

Would be nice if you could explain. Hi Andy , Not a stupid question at all. Some dipole antennas are electrically shorted designs. Think of this antenna as a folded dipole. There are lots of web pages on the internet covering the theory of folded dipole antennas.

Thanks for your question Andy and I hope you find this article useful to have a go and make your own antenna for a relatively small cost. Making antennas is fun and rewarding when you get it right. First of all I would like to say a huge thank you to Mike for taking the time and effort in designing aerials for the airband enthusiasts. I feel that for too long people have resorted to purchasing aerials from the larger manufactures, which are far inferior to what Mike has produced.

My review is based on the UHF military airband antenna version. I then decided to remove an inline filter that I used to reduce interference to my Airspy R2 which is prone to noise. It seems to pull out transmissions that were previously buried in noise. Before using this aerial I may have found a handful of new freqs in a week If I was lucky. Take my advice and make one of these — you will never need to make or purchase another antenna for airband monitoring.

My next test is the antenna for the civil air band, which I fully expect to match the performance of the UHF version. Great work Mike! Hi and thanks for the kind comments.

Glad the Military airband version is working well for you. Not usually much of an issue with Webro WF because this has a very thick and tight braid plus a foil screen. If you have a long run of cheaper RG or similar with much lower specs, you can add the choke option to combat interference.

It may be an idea to run your cable as normal but add half a metre or so to add the balun if you need to later. I have stated a 25mm former in the illustration but turns on a former of 25mm up to 70mm would do same.

Thanks for the question and your visit to my blog site. I hope you find the information here of use for your antenna build. Espero poder comentar como resulto todo. Sin problemas y hola Leonardo en La Serena, Chile. Hi Merseyradar I am not one for making sweeping statements or for that matter leaving messages but having just made both of the designs you have so brilliantly detailed I just had to write something.

I live in Somerset not too far from Bristol airport, 20 miles or a bit more in a straight line and with my newly acquired multi use rubber air band aerial I could get the planes before they went over to the tower and those that were passing overhead.

I have a Bearcat xlt and I have just started listening in to airband. Last week I made the first of the aerials the civil one and put it up on a 15ft copper pole by my shed, just above the roof line of the house. I got flightradar 24 installed on my PC and was just waiting to see what I could pick up. First I got the tower and approach at Bristol really clear and obviously the aircraft flying over head, then when I started to look at where the call signs were on my map I began to realise that they were miles and miles away, I can hear aircraft over the west of Ireland as they come into uk airspace for Heathrow I get the odd aircraft over the north sea as they approach Essex and East London as well as planes either going out of Heathrow north at Milton Keynes or those crossing the Channel south of Cornwall and Devon.

Thanks very much for taking the time and so much trouble to put the detailed information you have on this site and I am sure anyone who builds your aerials will be as blown away as I am. Hi Tony, A really nice message and it sounds like some really good results are coming in from your home made double bazooka for civil airband.

You are hearing stuff that you didnt before so thats a big improvement in reception. You must have made it right Tony, and.. Congratulations on making your own gear Tony,It is very satisfying when you have made something yourself and it works better than expected straight off the bat.

I note you also went on to make a mil air one as well. Thanks for the kind message Tony and your visit to my blog pages. So good to hear fellow builders success stories.. Best Regards, Mike. Good evening, I built the mil air version 2 to 3 weeks ago. Both in the loft. Having said that, I have to add that the flanged socket i bought looked a bit suspect compared to all the other connectors i have.

It was all i could find on ebay. Rg cable as you suggested for manufacture and the run from the loft is rg8 super xx. Nothing checked scientifically. Where it did surpass of course was mobility. Thank you. Hi Mike, Many Thanks for your comments.

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