Just wanted to say thanks for all the posts in the forums, they have been really helpful sanding machine for wood screwfix note me in the past and answered MOST of my questions - macyine this one regarding sealing MDF boards. How tough does it have to be? EPC sanding machine for car. Anyways, having to gently sand between coats with timber products is a normal thing to have to do if you want the best finish. R-RP woodworking cabinet door mdf plywood calibrate wood wide belt sander sanding machine.

It'll then take paint from a Sanding Machine For Wood Screwfix Exp brush. SnowmanTBR , Jan 15, Hi Snow. Not sure what it is you are building, but presumably it's for indoor use? If so, then all the flat surfaces need is a good coat of water-based MDF primer.

You can use a mini-roller foam to apply this and get a nice even finish. If necessary, apply a couple of coats and then flatten it back using grit and a sanding block - if you really do want it 'flat'. Do not sand the actual MDF surface. How durable it'll all end up will depend solely on the top finish you give it. How tough does it have to be? Is "2p pusher" the same as "shove-ha'penny"? Deleted member , Jan 15, Blimey, there are hobbies and then there are hobbies!

Nice work. Tbh, when I have to deal with exposed ends of MDF, I simply sand them smooth, apply a thick coat of normal W-B MDF primer as mentioned above, and then sand it again - almost removing it all to get it smooth again. Then another coat with only a light sanding now required. I've never bothered with 'sealer' - tho' that's not to say it ain't a good idea.

Shove-ha'penny is chust played on a flat 'football pitch' - a couple of pennies as players and a ha'penny as the ball. A ruler is used to flick the player into the ball. One of the main pastimes of our bleak childhood It's true that water and MDF aren't happy bunnies together, but water-based primer has such a relatively small amount of water in it, and it dries so quickly, that it doesn't cause problems. Having said that, when applied to the cut ends in particular it will tend to raise the fibres a bit, but that's easily sanded flat once it's fully dried.

The second coat is then not an issue. Anyways, having to gently sand between coats with timber products is a normal thing to have to do if you want the best finish. You may even wish to gently flatten the flat MDF surfaces once they've been primed too just to denib it and get it looking its best. The top coat should then go on well and look good.

A spray-painted finish won't work successfully unless you use a specialist high-build paint such as 2K - which will kill you in the process unless you have breathing gear You may wish to experiment on your off-cuts with top-coat finishes to see what works best.

Did you build all the internal mechanisms for that machine too?! If so - hats off. Cracking stuff, Snowy - what a lovely project Of course the rotational motion from the wiper motor is technically Wood Sanding Machine For Sale In Uk being converted into reciprocating Aw maaaaan - I chust had to go and spoil this love-in Last edited: Jan 15, Deleted member likes this.

It's always good when posters come back to show how things turned out, so very much looking forward. As DA has said priming and then sanding the edges is vital, by re-coating and going down the grades you can get the edges as smooth as the faces or if you want a contrast you can get iron on edging strips. Japan Malaysia 3. Pakistan Singapore 1. South Africa Tanzania 2.

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