Go back. Flip the table back over and make sure the rabbet is deep enough. A large table may not be an option in a small shop. Router plate insert install 96 seems to be disabled in your browser. The opening for your router plate is done! That should cover anything I'll be doing with it.

Related Guides. The rings snap out Router Plate Insert Install Library to accommodate larger router bits. The snuggers remove excess play. You can use the shoulder pin for easier freehand work. It comes with a limited lifetime warranty. It can handle large bits and heavy routers. The top is slippery. The top scratches easily. Limited lifetime warranty.

Weight: 1 pound. Dimensions: 12 x 9 x 1 inches. Warranty: Limited lifetime warranty. Q What is the mounting size? Q What is the largest router bit it will accommodate? Q What opening sizes does it offer? With this plate, lifting out the router is easy.

It suits many different routers. It comes with a lifetime warranty. All mounting hardware and plate locking bolts are included. Cons: Making the insert level with the table can be difficult. There are opposite screws in the plate which is a safety hazard. Weight: 2. Dimensions: Q What is the insert ring bit opening size? Q What tables will this insert fit? A Bench Dog and Rockler router tables. Q What router brands can be used with this insert? The surface is nice, flat, and smooth.

It has eight fine-pitch screws for leveling with ease. There are multiple starting pin locations, and three twist-lock rings to make woodworking so much easier. Some fine-tuning is required to get it level with the table. Weight: 4.

Q What routers will this insert suit? Q How thick is the plate? Q What insert rings come with it? Pros: It supports heavy routers without sag. There are three removable rings and four opening sizes. The leveling screws and magnets come with the insert plate. There are marks as guidelines for mounting popular routers. It comes with a blank insert ring for you to create your own custom size. It comes with a steel starter pin for routing curved pieces.

It requires a lot of setup. It flexes a lot. There are no pre-drilled holes for popular routers, just marks. Dimensions: 9 x 12 x 0. Q What are the opening sizes? Q Does it come pre-drilled? It should follow pretty close to the inside of the line that was traced around the router table insert plate earlier. I left the top and bottom pieces of the template long enough so that I could use c-clamps through the cast iron wing on the left side of the router table. The photo on the left shows the finished template clamped down to the table and ready to use.

I had to wiggle c-clamps through the slots in the table saw's top to clamp down the left side of the template. It would also be possible to use double sided tape to secure the template, but it's a lot easier to adjust the template using clamps. This photo shows the lip on the underside of the insert plate. The lip is 12mm wide by 6mm thick. Since the router table insert plate comes with allen screws for leveling, I can make the first cut 6.

Before I start cutting with the router, I drilled a 1" starter hole in the waste part of the table with a spade bit. I need the starter hole because I'm using a fixed base router. If you use a plunge router you can probably skip this step. Just set your depth stop at 6. The first pass with the bit set to cut 6. Starting from the hole previously drilled in the table, I made the first pass around the template in a clockwise direction.

After this first cut, I measured the depth to make sure it was deep enough. It was right on 6. I then measured the width and height to make sure the router table inser plate was going to fit. So far, so good. Before I can move on, I need to cut some spacer strips to fit inside the template to allow me to cut out the section of the table where the router plate will sit.

Spacer strips are added to the inside of the template for the next cut. This photo shows the two sides already cut. I ripped the spacer strips to the same width as the lip on the router insert plate. This will move the router in 12mm on all sides. The spacer strips should have a slight interference fit. This will keep them from moving when running the router around the inside of the template. With the depth of the router bit still set at 6. I used the router to cut completely through the router table.

The center waste section is shown in the upper left of this photo. Mdf cuts pretty easy, but is very dusty This should include a dust mask and eye protection. A trial fit of the router plate showed that a bit of sanding was required to get it to fit. With the router plate held upside down, I tried it in the recess and it fit nicely. This meant it was the inside edge of the lip that wasn't going into the through hole, so I sanded around the hole in the table until I got a nice fit.

The magnets that came with the router table insert plate are 8mm in diameter and need to be set into the lip on the table top under the set screws that are used to level the router plate. Here I am using a transfer punch to mark the center of the holes where the magnets will go. The countersunk hole ahead of the transfer punch is for scewing the router plate in place.

The idea is to have the set screws pushing against the magnets instead of digging into the wood. To mark the center of the holes for the magnets, I set the router insert plate in place and used a transfer punch to leave a nice center punch mark to start the drill bit.

To drill the holes, I used a regular twist drill that was slightly smaller than the diameter of the magnets. I used masking tape around the drill bit to set the depth of the holes. The finished opening with the magnets installed. The magnets were coated with super glue on the sides and pushed into the holes. The magnets should have a slight interference fit in the holes.

These are rare earth neodymium magnets and are very brittle, so don't take a hammer to them unless you use a block of wood between the hammer and magnet. Even then, be careful. What's the best router to use in your router table? The answer to that question depends more or less on what kind of work you're going to be doing with it. If you're only concerned with making a bit of trim or other small jobs, a high horsepower router isn't necessary.

Also, if the router isn't already equipped with a speed switch, a separate router speed control will be needed. If you need more information on the different kinds of routers available and what to look for, take a look at Ken's website at www. He has lots of great articles on routers, tables and general woodworking. Mounting the router to Router Plate Insert Install Docker the router table insert plate turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it would be.

The bottom of the plate has a series of concentric circles that match the Router Plate Insert Install Js base diameter of most routers available today. Centering the router's base on the patterns provided on the bottom of the router insert plate. A series of lines emanating from the center, cross the circles, leaving a number of different bolt patterns where they intersect.

When I centered the router on the router plate, keeping in mind the direction I wanted the router to face, the screw holes lined up perfectly with the crosshairs left by the lines intersecting the circles. After marking the proper intersects, it was just a matter of centerpunching, drilling and countersinking the mounting holes. The router table insert plate is made of phenolic. It is a hard, dense material, but machines quite easily if you follow a few simple rules:.

The screws to mount the router to the plate were supplied in the case the router came in. With the router up as far as it will go, I have enough room to change bits from the top of the table. The photo on the right shows the router mounted on the router table insert plate with the router adjusted up as far as it will go.

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