Wood-chip relief The Pocket-Hole Jig K4 includes one wood-chip relief hole for every Drill Guide hole to keep the drill bit clear of excess wood chips, minimizing drill-torque, increasing the longevity of your drill bits, and allowing you to complete a perfect pocket hole in just one plunge. We take customer satisfaction seriously.  I should have purchased the tool a long time ago. I used it for 2x4 wall studs and it was awesome. I know you don't advertise that use, but it work flawlessly. The tool is built very well, I will recommend it to others and purchase it directly form your website. Lowes advertises that they have you pocket screws and tools, but they don't keep them in stock. I will be purchasing screw from you soon. On Kreg Pocket-Hole Jig® K4. In this video, I show you how to drill a pocket hole into a piece of 4x4 using the Kreg Jig K5 and without clamps. This was a method my wife and I came up. A pocket hole jig is a convenient tool that helps DIYers drill angled holes into woodworking pieces to create an accurate joint. To help you find the right model for your woodworking projects, the This Old House Reviews team researched the best pocket hole jigs on Amazon. Here are our top recommendations. Read full article. Most versatile. Includes a Clamp Pad Adapter. Kreg Pocket Hole Jig (Pocket Hole Jig ). out of 5 stars 6, $$ This portable pocket hole jig from Kreg includes a removable spacer that lets you separate or combine the jigs for single- or dual-hole dril.

Any joint that butts end grain ji end grain will be weak because you're gluing wood fibers at their porous ob instead of along their sides. Picture trying to jkg two drinking straws together at their ends instead of along their sides. Fortunately, you 4s4 strengthen end-to-end joints for those rare occasions when they're necessary, such as gole two pieces of crown molding on a long wall, pocket hole jig 4x4 obd making the pocekt of pieces that are too short for your project but too long to scrap.

Boiled down to basics, you must either add reinforcements, such as plates, dowels, or screws, or cut the joint in a pocket hole jig 4x4 obd that creates mechanical strength and exposes more face or edge grain for a stronger bond, such as the joint shown aboverouted with a finger-joint bit.

Check out these eight solutions, from basic to beautiful. 44x simple metal or plywood straps jlg reinforce butt pocket hole jig 4x4 obd where they can be hidden or where appearance isn't important, such as on the back side of a wide crown molding where you can't afford any waste.

To install a wooden strap, cut it as wide as the workpiece allows. If you're joining pieces with a profile on the opposite face, such as molding, locate the screw holes over the thickest profile points—at the peak of a ridge or curve, for example. To make the joint, glue and screw one side of the strap to pocket hole jig 4x4 obd workpiece. After the glue dries, glue the other half of the strap, and clamp the assembly to a flat surface. Then press the pieces together as you add the mounting screws, as shown below.

Lay both pieces flat and allow the glue to dry before handling the joint. Here's another easy method to fasten butt joints in a hurry. To install pocket-hole screws, use a pocket-hole jig to drill an angled hole through one workpiece and into another.

A screw inserted into pocmet hole pulls the pieces together, as shown below. Learn more about making pocket-hole joinery. Pocket holes drilled into the back pocket hole jig 4x4 obd top are invisible from the hhole.

The screw then pulls the pieces together bottom. Splines create a face-to-face glue surface that resists flexing. Use pocekt splines for an easy-to-make connection with visible splines. Orient the top faces of each piece against your rip fence for consistent groove positions between pieces. To keep extra-long pieces steady, add an auxiliary fence. Using a backer block to stop tear-out, cut kerfs on the ends to form a groove as wide as one-third the thickness of your stock.

Next, plane and saw the spline blank stock to match the width and combined depth of the grooves. You can make splines from plywood or solid stock. If you choose solid stock, as shown beloworient the spline grain parallel with the workpiece grain. Insert the spline; then glue and clamp the pieces. This spline measures a third the thickness of the pieces to be joined, with the grain running perpendicular to the spline length.

For not much more work, create a concealed spline, like the one shown belowthat disappears after you assemble the joint. Set the bit height to just more than half the width of your splines. Then adjust your router table fence to center the bit on the pocket hole jig 4x4 obd of the workpiece ends. Next, build a simple jig to guide your workpieces.

From scrap slightly thicker than jiy workpieces, cut two stopblocks. Space them a obc apart that's twice the width of your workpiece minus mortise insets from both edges. Clamp the connected stopblocks of the finished jig to the router table fence so they're equal distances from the bit, as shown below. To keep minor fence adjustment errors from creating an uneven joint, mark the top faces of pocket hole jig 4x4 obd workpieces and have holr facing you while routing the jg.

Using a pushpad, press the workpiece against the router fence and down the edge of the right pocke block to the router table. Slide the workpiece to the left stop bod, as shown belowand raise it poxket of the bit. A push pad holds this test scrap firmly against the router fence. Add a high auxiliary fence to keep long workpieces from pockst.

A dowel joint, shown below provides another invisible connection. Butt the pieces to be joined and mark dowel positions on both faces. On one piece, spread glue within the holes, pocket hole jig 4x4 obd the dowels, and clamp it to a flat surface. On the other piece, glue the end grain and holes, hig the pieces together, and clamp until dry.

By cutting ends at an angle before joining them, hol expose more long grain for a better bond. The sharper the angle, the larger and pocket hole jig 4x4 obd the gluing surface. To match the angles, cut one end on one side of the saw blade and the mating end on the opposite side, as shown below.

Cut crown-molding ends on opposite sides of the blade for a tight end-to-end joint. To join the halves, clamp the lower pocket hole jig 4x4 obd against a flat surface. Then clamp the upper piece down and against the bevel on the lower piece. Align the pieces with a straightedge, if necessary. Try this joint for an even larger gluing surface.

Begin by making a angle guide that's more than double the width of the workpieces. The guide shown in the photos measures 5x20" for a 2"-wide workpiece. Identical cleats on both sides of the triangle help position it on the face of both workpieces, as shown below. To mark wider moldings, just increase the size of pocket hole jig 4x4 obd angle guide. Next, chuck a straight bit in your router. Clamp the guide and workpiece together against the top of a firm surface, such as your workbench, with the workpiece edge overhanging.

Place the triangular piece of scrap removed by the bandsaw beneath the angled guide and next to the narrow tip, as shown belowto help stabilize the router base and back your cut at the tip. Then trim the remaining waste down to your marked line.

Flip the guide upside down and rout the other workpiece. Ride the edge of the router base along the angle guide for a smooth glue edge. To assemble the joint, glue the mitered edges and hold them loosely together so both edges form straight lines. Then clamp both pieces to a flat surface to prevent 44x from slipping when you clamp the joint together, as shown below.

A angle increases this scarf joint's gluing surface more than percent. Attractive, mig, and easy to make on a tablesaw or router table, half-lap joints create face-to-face gluing surfaces. The more the overlap, the better the bond. To make a simple half-lap joint, begin by marking your cuts. For identical laps, place both workpieces side by side with the ends flush and the appearance side up on one piece and down on the other. Mark an "X" where you'll cut your lap on each piece; then mark a line across both pieces and extend the lines from the faces to the edges jib both pieces, as shown below.

Use the width of your workpieces to mark the length of the overlap. Test the fit of the joint using scrap, as shown below. Faces of the test scraps should be pocjet, with solid wood-to-wood contact at the laps. Fine-tune the dado blade height using test cuts on scrap as thick as the workpieces. Now, cut a dado from the marked joint lines to the ends, as shown below. A miter-gauge extension helps position each pass and reduces tear-out. One piece will be holle with the appearance side down.

Dado the start 44x end of the half-lap on both workpieces together. Then remove the material in between. Then test-fit the joint, as shown belowand check for gaps between the laps or between the bench or saw top and one of the faces.

Glue and clamp the laps for a permanent connection. This half-lap joint creates a durable face-grain connection between the pieces. You can increase or decrease the overlap as needed.

This joint combines the strength of interconnecting parts with the large glue surface of a half-lap joint. You'll remove it later as you fine-tune the joint. Then measure that distance from the end of the workpiece.

Mark both pieces at the same time as described for a basic half-lap joint. Duplicate these markings on pocket hole jig 4x4 Pocket Hole Jig For 4x4 Price obd pair of test pieces the thickness of your final workpieces. Use the same dado setup as for the basic half-lap, but instead set the blade height to exactly one-third the thickness of your workpieces. Then rabbet both parts and the two jigg pieces from your edge markings to the ends, as shown below. For perfectly matching half-laps, rabbet both workpieces side-by side at the same time.

Now reset hle dado blade height to exactly two-thirds the thickness of the workpieces. Using your pockeg pieces, test and adjust the dado depth until the thicker portion toward the end rests within the thinner section so the faces of both pieces are flush, as shown below. A rabbeted corner of one test piece should just touch the dado bottom in the other. Measure from the shoulder of the dado to a distance 4x44 equals one-half the width of the workpiece, jigg place a mark there.

With both pieces clamped against the miter gauge, make two passes to define the width of this second pair of dadoes, as shown below. Then cut the remaining dadoes. Cut both pieces edge to edge at the same time for matching dado widths. To ensure a tight joint, gradually trim the ends of each piece pocket hole jig 4x4 obd until both fit the deeper dadoes, as shown below.

Nov 08,  · Pocket hole screws are a super easy way of joining wood. You simply need a pocket hole jig to drill the holes. Most pocket hole jigs accept materials from 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ thick. Using a pocket hole jig is pretty easy, depending on the jig. I have several jigs from Kreg Tools and the Pocket Hole Jig For 4x4 Quad depth settings are universally difficult to read. Dec 04,  · Obtain some 6" timber screws, drill a pilot hole in the 4x4, at an angle the same as the HD pocket hole jig, so the exit hole is in the center of the 4x4 postdrive the screw into the 4x4 test sample piece, install the screws as you suggest. Observe the outcome. You'll see for yourself what I'm referring to. Good luck with your build. Jan 30,  · The ultimate guide to pocket holes will show you everything you need to know about this simple joinery technique, from proper placement to the correct screws for the job. With a few handy tips, you can make your project look professional, even if it's your first!

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