I liked it because it could be used for the real fine stuff; like dovetails. Therefore it is also known as combination gauge. Joiners use marking knife to scribe a line so that they can accurately run a hand saw or chisel during making joints or other operations. Try it. The marking gauge which has a longer stem is called panel gauge. Marking knife types llc round blade contains in two separate stems.

This Swann Morton craft knife is manufactured in Sheffield England to the same exacting standards as their world famous range of surgical blades an This knife is made by Mikov of the Czech Republic. Make a marking knife to your own unique design using this marking knife kit. This kit is made by Narex of the Czech Republic and is of exceptional These Swann Morton knife blades are manufactured in Sheffield England to the same exacting standards as their world famous range of surgical blades A marking knife is an invaluable tool that should be in the toolbox of every woodworker.

A good marking knife can produce crisp and well-defined ma This kit contains everything you need to make 5 marking knives of your own design using the ever popular Swann Morton SM01 blades. Blades are 0. The hard steel is kinda brittle and might chip when you pry with it. I would look into Fuller brand Brad Point Bits, made in the northeast. The are probably some of the best wood bits I have used available in inch and metric , available through Tools for Woring Wood.

Made a marking knife just like it from an auto leaf spring. Knifemakers use leaf springs quite often. High carbon steel with chromium. Never thought of using it as a skew chisel, thanks! I bought an old 7 too quickly at the yard sale on my lunch break.

When I got it home I found the iron to be snapped in half long ways. I been rolling around the idea of making a marking knife from the two halves. I think you just pushed me over the edge. If you try carving a circle with a gouge and then with a chisel you can feel how much smoother it is with a curved edge.

I use Colt brad point bits, mostly. Nothing, in my view is more accurate and smooth cutting as these bits. I got the single-edge version of this a while back but the gentle curve from one side down the bevel contrasting with the flat straight-edge on the back of the knife gave this optical illusion of the knife tip being bent over whenever I used it and it drove me nuts so I swapped it out for that stanley knife Paul Sellers uses and which my dad used to use a lifetime ago so that was a nice symmetry.

Same steel as their excellent plane irons. I use them very often with a small drill brace with a hex shaft and they make holes in fir without tearout. I made a mistake in the previous post.

I thought I would have deleted the word. I just bought an old screwdriver at a garage sale for 50 cents and shaped the point on a grinder, works fine, I use it for just about everything, an old busted up chisel would work too — just shape the tip how you want it.

Fine-tools in Germany carry an extended range of both. I use my in lieu of a router plane on tenon cheeks and dovetailed dados as well. The single- and doublebevelled version cutting knives of the same type are all I use now for cutting and whitling duties.

Fairly inexpensive. Then I worry that my saw will dive into the knife line and screw things up. Easy to see, easy to fix and with a thick enough sharp lead, you can extend it deep within a narrow pin. Always up for suggestions or help! Only suggestion I can think of is going with a very light pressure. As light as you can. Then with the next pass go slightly heavier. The initial shallow cut helps guide the blade. Also I have found softwoods more challenging than hardwoods because of the hard and soft aspects of the growth rings.

Thanks Michael, I think that should help. Congrats on finding your knife. I searched for quite a while before I found one that I liked. I tried a couple of expensive ones as well. I am searching for good drill bits as well. Keep us posted if you find them. Thanks for the tip, Richard. They are not laminated but they are made of good, old Sheffield steel.

Their unlaminated carbon steel blades are good too, easily sharpened to an impressively sharp edge. I ordered the same knife recently and am pondering whether to make a leather sheath for it. How would you guys store this thing, both to protect yourself and the brittle tip?

About the drill bit…The center bit might fit the bill, although AFAIK they can only be used with a brace because of the square shaft, so not suitable for eggbeaters. The others all have uses in the shop. Since I use it for everything from cutting clippings from news papers to whittling pegs, it is always in my pocket. I had one that was broken, so I turned a handle for it on a small lathe I have, then ground it back with a grinder.

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