The Bailey-style planes can be a bit top-heavy. Finally, smoothing planes finish the surface of the wood. Next, using a honing guide and a coarse stone begin to reshape the bevel. For those who have struggled with clogged chip breakers in the past this is a check mark on the pros side of things. However, some see it as a disadvantage. Planes require very little maintenance aside from the occasional tuning; however, cleaning them can make a surprisingly large difference if you have put off the task. So for jointer plane bevel up or down 2020 garage sale goer bevel down planes are going to be much easier to find.

Or the plane has no formal lateral adjustment, as with the bevel-up Lie-Nielsen planes, and you have to adjust the iron laterally with your fingers or a small hammer. The Bailey-style planes have a separate lateral-adjustment lever above the tote.

Difference 2: Grip. One subtle difference is that the bevel-up planes encourage a four-finger grip, while the Bailey-style planes encourage a three-finger grip. Some people really like the four-finger grip, and I believe them and think that bevel-up planes are ideal for this sort of hand preference. I like the three-finger grip and use it on my drills, saws and planes. I think having the index finger extended is a cue to your brain and helps guide your work straighter.

You can use a three-finger grip with bevel-up planes I do but it feels weird having your finger suspended above the tool in space with nothing to support it. Difference 3: Chipbreakers. I say this all the time: I really dislike chipbreakers, cap irons or whatever you want to call them.

I think they are the No. Chipbreakers are found on all Bailey-style planes, and this is one of their major demerits. The bevel-up planes have no chipbreaker. And I marvel every time at how easy they are to set up and maintain because of that missing chunk of steel frustration. Difference 4: Throat Adjustment.

If you want to adjust the throat on your Bailey-style plane, settle in. Even the best Bailey planes with a Bed Rock mechanism require some fussing and back and forth to get a tight throat opening.

Older Bailey planes require you to disassemble the frog. In contrast, the throat on a bevel-up plane is a cakewalk to adjust. You loosen a knob and slide a shoe plate as close or as far away from the cutting edge as you like.

Nothing could be simpler or more intuitive. This is another big advantage for bevel-up planes if you make any throat adjustments in your work , and many people with just a plane or two do this. Other Differences. The bevel-up planes have more of their mass low on the tool. The Bailey-style planes can be a bit top-heavy. The funny thing is, I like top-heavy.

I believe it. I chalk this up to what you are used to. I have become more comfortable with the balance of the bevel-up planes over the years, but I still favor the top-heavy feel of the Bailey.

This is due to the higher center of gravity. In addition, they lack the adaptability of other planes and will struggle with certain woods.

Like I mentioned before the chip breaker can go either way. It is a constant source of controversy and can be listed in every argument.

Finally, while it is easy to make depth adjustments, adjusting the throat is a process that takes a while. Some users just keep a supply of planes with different throat openings in order to alleviate the time it takes to adjust them.

In comparison, bevel up planes can be adjusted rather quickly. There are also different size planes meant to do different jobs in addition to the bevel up and bevel down variations.

The three main types of planes commonly used today are the jack, jointer, and smoothing plane. The different bevel types have positive and negative effects on each process. First, fore planes are used to take off larger amounts of wood and begin the flattening process. This is one step in which the bevel down planes high center of gravity is an advantage.

This is because the height exaggerates any discrepancies in the wood. Next, jointer planes are used to continue smoothing the surface of the wood. This is the middle ground and most commonly found plane. It is also a great place to use a bevel up plane especially if it is your only plane. You can get away with using different irons to get different results.

In contrast, the bevel down plane is more job specific at this point. Finally, smoothing planes finish the surface of the wood. Like I mentioned earlier bevel down planes get a superior finish in most smoothing situations. However, if you are working with exotic woods or are just looking to try something different a bevel up smoothing plane can create some incredible results.

While both styles of plane have their pros and cons they both benefit from proper maintenance and tuning.

Planes require very little maintenance aside from the occasional tuning; however, cleaning them can make a surprisingly large difference if you have put off the task. Cleaning a plane is a simple task. First, simply disassemble the plane, make sure to remove every screw and knob. Then with wire brushes clean all of the threads, both inside and outside. Last, assemble the plane using light machine oil on all of the threads and adjusters.

This will result in a plane with exceptionally smooth actions for months to come. There are two main parts to tuning a plane. The first of which is the sole of the plane. If the sole is uneven than the tool will not work as well. To test the sole slide it across medium grit sandpaper. Any spots with excessive scuffing indicates a high spot. If there are high spots than some tuning is required. To do this lay sandpaper on a flat surface and wet sand the sole working down from medium to fine grit sandpaper.

When you have completed this the sole should have a polished and smooth surface. Next, it is important to maintain the iron or the cutting blade. A sharp iron will not only make the work easier, the results will general be of higher quality too. There are three basic steps to sharpening an iron, polishing the backside, honing the bevel, and polishing the bevel.

Start by polishing the backside, non-beveled side, of the iron. Using water stones, work to a fine stone until the iron has a mirror-like quality. Next, using a honing guide and a coarse stone begin to reshape the bevel. Generally, you will have to touch up the backside again after honing. After you have finished honing you can polish the bevel in the same way as the backside working down to a fine stone until the iron is sufficiently sharp.

Both styles of planes can be found for very similar prices. The biggest difference is for those looking at the used market. Higher quality bevel down planes have been made for years resulting in a large used market. The same is not true for bevel up planes. So for the garage sale goer bevel down planes are going to be much easier to find. First and foremost, when buying used planes make sure that all of the parts are present and that they are in working condition.

If you see split wood or broken metal pieces it is advisable to avoid the tool and find another. It can be difficult to source replacement parts for vintage planers and is generally not worth the trouble. Another thing to look out for is rust. Surface rust is not an issue and with a little work it can be removed and protected.

However, if the metal has began to pit than restoration to manufacturer quality is impossible. Also, be on the lookout for shiny pitting if the metal has no rust. Finally, the iron is not of the utmost importance modern irons are much better than vintage and even vintage ones can be honed and sharpened well.

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