I decided to match this slope to the opposite side of the joiners mallet qq. Let the assembly sit for a bit while the glue sets up. Sign up using Email and Password. Now that I have seen how big it is I could also see a joiners mallet qq with viewing your strikes. Oak Firewood: free craigslist, look for dried, or something that has been sitting out for a year or more. Hard maple will probably be fine; I'm paranoid about splitting handles.

Between these two marks, I drew a line with a straight edge. Placing the handle in a vise I used a rip saw to cut just off the line. After the cut, the edges were planed smooth and square. Next I marked a center reference line on a face running the length of the handle. I also placed center lines on the mallet head. Placing the head on the handle in its final position, I lined up the center lines and marked the bottom and top of the mallet head in its final location on the handle.

These lines will be used to create the layout for the mortise on the head. Using the combination square, I measured, marked and checked the center lines on the top and bottom of the mallet head.

I actually had to do this twice on the bottom until I was certain of my marks. Once the center lines were certain, I transferred the width and depth of the handle to the head.

Of course since the handle tapers, these distances are different for the top and bottom of the mallet head. To do this, I used the final reference line for the bottom of the head I had previously marked on the handle.

Since the center line divides this distance in half, finding the distance was simple and direct. I registered the metal dividers from the center line to the outside edge, then locked the divider set screw. By placing the dividers on the crossing of the center lines on the mallet, transferring this measurement was easy and direct. I used the combination square to mark lines based on these marks. To help define the mortise area, I used a chisel to lightly cut the start of each mortise, staying on the inside of the lines and marks.

Next I verified that my auger bit will also cut within the lines of the mortise. In order to bore holes in the mallet head, I secured it a bench top fence with clamps. This is important for a tight fit. In a mortise this size, waste has to be hogged away before chopping with a chisel can start. An auger bit makes quick work of waste removal. The first holes were bored into the top of the head. Each time I drilled just over half way. The bottom of the auger is headed toward the center line.

This was so I could follow the tapper of the handle when I chopped the mortise. The second hole broke through into the hole of the first so it is canted toward the center line even more. This inward angle isn't critical since it is removing waste away from the center of the chop. The final walls of the mortise will be chopped and fine tuned with chisels.

Since these two bore holes converge toward each other, the material of the outside walls of the mortise are still intact, ready to be chiseled away. Next the bottom of the head is bored. In this case the angle of rake is the opposite from this procedure on the top. I set the auger bit to cut from the center axis outward. This follows the layout of the tapered handle. Picture these two bore holes flaring away from each other.

After the holes were bored and the debris removed, I started to carefully chop the waste away with a chisel. I removed the waste closest to the inside first and slowly crept closer to the layout cut lines. I took my time, flipping the head from top to bottom and vise versa until chopping these mortise cut-outs met.

I like the top of my mallet to look like it is rounded, but you can do whatever you feel like. This is quickly done with a 4 hand plane or spokeshave. For the two ends, I use a bevel up low angle jack plane as it pushes a bit easier. Then just use 4 to smooth the other sides.

I also like to put a very heavy chamfer on all edges. This is easily done with a block plane or spokeshave. This is a very personal step so everyone has a preferred grip. It is meant to be held up close to the head unlike a hammer. But I just put a chamfer on the 4 corners where my hand connects with it. Then chamfer the edges of the bottom and top.

My preferred finish for hand tools is boiled linseed oil and paste wax. One or two coats of BLO, then apply a light coat of paste wax; let it set for 20 mins or so then buff off the excess. I have a whole video on the process here. Cart 0. Cut Other 3 Sides. Cut To Length. I did drill out the middle portion of the head and put lead shot into a couple of them, but I found the additional weight unnecessary for my purposes, and made the mallet a bit unwieldy for regular use.

The domed head is the unique attribute that really sets this mallet apart. I find that I use the domed side when striking objects that are larger than the mallet itself, and the flat side when striking objects that are smaller. This mallet is one of the most frequently used tools in my shop. Would there be an advantages or disadvantages to making the handle and the center potion of the wood sandwich as one piece?

Very interesting idea. Hi, Michael. Yes, you may print these instructions. If you have any further questions, please contact us at I feel like I missing something here…. The 2 degree cuts on the inside of the center pieces form a tapered mortise.

When the handle is put in and wedges are driven in, that creates a joint that tightens when the head tries to move away from the handle when you strike something with the mallet. Made one this weekend out of maple. I rounded my handle a little more Joiners Mallet Definition to fit my hand. The weight feels good. Unlike most that are made from hard plastic, the head on mine is rubber on one side and metal on the other. I am really interested in seeing how the domed side of the head will work. I am looking around the garage, what I have for scrap is what I will use.

Just so happens we have alot of pine fencing slats, that actually might work. Thoughts on this idea? If anything I wasted time and got plenty of practice making the basic cuts and assembling them. Generally pine is too soft and light for a joiners mallet. It would be good for practice however. I have scaled the drawing so that the handle is four feet long, and the dimensions are shown in the diagram we will email to you.

We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership. Thanks for any help that you can throw my way. Hi Adam. No need to taper the tenon. The tapering will happen when you drive the wedges into place. Was wondering if shortleaf pine would be ok for the wedges.

I only have one hardwood on hand, but I wanted to have a contrast. It will be on the soft side, so it will get dinged up, but it will be beautiful and will work. For durability it would be better to use a harder wood such as maple or oak. I made this, and it was a great, affordable way to learn by making mistakes.

All the mistakes. And somehow it still came out beautifully and ready to whack stuff.

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