With the grinder grinder for sharpening turning tools key, set the gouge on your resting hand and sharpeniny it forward until the middle grinder for sharpening turning tools key of the bevel touches the upper half of the wheel, and then allow it to tip away from the wheel. Its positive detent positions make returning to the previous setting easy. Shortly, it comes with a quick and easy setup. I hate the grinder personally, it is so much quicker and easier is to take out my diamond hone and ten seconds later I have a tool way sharper than one straight mey the grinder. Customer Care Talk to a friendly customer care representative to help with your purchase. However, these are some of the ksy ones that come with economical prices. The surfaces should be flat, not convex or concave.

In my opinion, freehand grinding is safer and just as accurate. The spindle gouge is designed to cut curves, coves, and other detailed profiles on spindles and bowls.

Unlike a roughing gouge, this profile has a longer, tapered point, with cut-back shoulders designed to stay clear of the cut. Sharpening a spindle gouge requires more practice than other tools because the tool is rolled against the grinding wheel while simultaneously being slid up higher on the wheel to grind the wings. Unlike a basic gouge, you cannot simply set the tool on the rest. To facilitate this two-step process, I set my resting hand on the V-rest as shown above left.

I think this method keeps your hand a safer distance from the wheel. With the grinder off, set the gouge on your resting hand and slide it forward until the middle section of the bevel touches the upper half of the wheel, and then allow it to tip away from the wheel. Now with the grinder on, raise the handle until the full bevel touches the wheel.

As you rotate the tool, simultaneously push it up on the grinding wheel, as shown. Repeat this process on one side until sparks come over the edge and inside the flute. Then repeat the procedure on the other side of the bevel.

This gouge can also be sharpened freehand, but when establishing a brand-new bevel on a larger gouge, I appreciate help from the Vari-Grind jig.

To use the jig, first employ the stop so that the tip projects about 2" from the front of the jig as shown. Now, turn the grinder on, and lower the tool onto the wheel. Grind the tip first, and then pivot and swing the jig in each direction, as shown to create an even grind.

As you can see in the photo, it helps to stand to one side the grinder in order to stay clear of handle. The skew chisel is my go-to tool for most spindle turning. It can be used not only to shape, but also to finish cylinders, V-grooves, beads, and long concave curves.

Since it is a finish-surface tool, a skew must be razor literally, hair-shaving sharp. Rather than using a grinder, I prefer shaping the bevels on either a disc or belt sander outfitted with grit abrasive. Unlike a wheel, these machines maintain the flat bevel. Note: To avoid any chance of fire, remove sawdust from the sander and surrounding area. Repeat this procedure on the opposite face.

After grinding both faces, check the bevels, and then make any necessary adjustments so that both bevels are the same length. After grinding, you'll need to hone the edge. A few passes on each side should do the trick. These days, I also keep a diamond paddle in my apron pocket.

This accessory provides a handy way to touch up an edge before making a finishing cut. I find that I can re-hone an edge several times before needing to regrind it.

The trick is knowing when a tool needs a touch-up, before the damage is done. The ability to tell the difference requires a certain amount of experience, especially since some woods are harder to turn than others. One quick way to determine whether a tool is sharp or not is by dragging its edge across your thumbnail. Nick Cook is a founding member of the American Association of Woodturners, and conducts woodturning workshops across the country.

You must be logged in to write a comment. Log In. Find a Store. My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. I use leather charged with red rouge polish. Another tip: put some super cleaner on your diamond hones for lubrication. My sharpening routine goes grinder, synthetic diamonds, 4 grits, medium, then hard Arkansas stones, then stropping. Though once I have the geometry correct I don't usually grind anymore.

I have Japanese water stones too but I don't use those for everything. Reply 5 years ago. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. Mounting circular grinding stones is something you should only do if you know what you are doing. They can explode when spinning due to overtightening and the like. BTW I think there is a lot of confusion in these comments between grinding and sharpening, the two are not the same! Pfred is correct turing tools should be stropped to remove the wire edge and then it is really sharp.

Personally I prepare my tools on a Sorby belt linisher and then polish. Been doing this for years and have been turning professionally for years. Friger: grinding a turning chisel Reply 9 years ago on Introduction.

Did you know that when turning the wire edge is what is doing the cutting? You don't need to strop a lathe chisel, the grinder is all you need. Call me wrong but I've spent too much time standing in wood curls to be mistaken about this. What you are doing is a fine job of making a carving chisel, and I would think you are an expert carver. Thanks for the comment friger. Those oysters you smoked look great too, gonna have to try that myself!

Down here on the west coast of Florida we smoke a lot of a fish called mullet to make dips or just eat straight, maybe I will grab some oysters next time I fire up the smoker.

Was nice, I had crabs for lunch just about every day. I used the mullet to bait the crab trap. I do have a diamond dresser that I use from time to time to keep the face flat. I just didn't want to broach that subject since it is not directly related to the topic of lathe chisels and not being a metal worker I will leave grinder setup and maintenance to the true experts.

One of these days I might get around to stropping but the diamond is just so quick and easy and the edge the fine side leaves will not shave but it will pop hairs. For cleaning my diamond I just used dawn from time to time to clean it, seems to work ok and I like the stone dry so I can keep it in my pocket.

I have water stones and oil stones too but I like the simplicity of this routine since I never have to leave the lathe I just pull the diamond stone out of my pocket a few quick swipes and I am ready to do my finishing cuts on the piece.

Now if I am sharpening a plane iron or a bench chisel I will go all the way to my grit water stone to make it shine, but that is another instructable. Thanks for feedback. I have a question concerning the radius of a round-nosed scraper. See picture. As to whether you need to more than just grind turning tools, it's not as simple as you should just grind them or you should hone them till they shine.

This article discusses this. You mean I'm supposed to sharpen those lathe tools? Oh, man Just kidding. Nice instructable. Perhaps you could add a couple links to sites that expand on the subject so that beginners can learn some more.

When I started, I was so taken up with producing perfect edges that I didn't do any turning for close to six months ;-. Let the bottom of the tool hit the wheel first, then let the top side touch.

You want to achieve a 25 to degree bevel with a swept-back edge. You are looking for a beveled edge between 40 to 55 degrees. When sparks fly, you are done. The goal here is to get a 75 to degree bevel.

You may need to use a jig to help you and once you have the tool inside the jig. You are going to need patience and a steady hand to make the tools sharp again. The key is to make sure you get your angles correct and keep making adjustments to your tool rest. If you need to double-check to see if your tools are sharp enough, just run them across your thumbnail. If you take some of the nails off your tools are ready for action.

A vise holds tools in place and does not allow for the natural sharpening motion needed when using a bench grinder. You want to use a degree angle to get the proper edge on your smaller gardening tools.

Also, keep the tool moving. Holding it in place can ruin the tool and you will have more work cut out for you. Stay in control of the blade and your movements. You just direct where and how much the wheel does its job.

Unscrew the center nut and bolt and separate the two halves. Take one half and start up your bench grinder. This will weaken the blade. Sharpen the outside bevel edge like you would any garden tool. Unplug the mower or remove its spark plug first. Then turn the mower over and remove the blades. Make a note of which side is up. This is important as you do not want to re-install the blades the wrong way.

Use a permanent marker to mark the up side. Only one side of the mower blade needs to be sharpened. Clean the edge so you can see what you are doing. Start the bench grinder and wait until it gets to full speed. The shovel does not have to be too sharp. Start the grinder and wait till the wheels are spinning at top speed.

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