In my youtubr, freehand grinding is safer and just as accurate. I think this gouge chisel sharpening youtuber keeps your hand a safer distance from the wheel. Skew chisels require honing. To facilitate this two-step process, I set my resting hand on the V-rest as shown above left. They can gouge chisel sharpening youtuber be natural, having been quarried directly from the ground or synthetic, engineered in a factory. So, besides using it to sharpen your chisels, you can place it openly for its unique style. Note: A lower angle will produce a cleaner cut, but it tends to break down quickly when used for scraping.

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That way, your chisel can become extremely sharp in no time! This feature guarantees that the stone has a varying degree of granularity. It comes with a flawless design that is aesthetically—pleasing for the users. So, besides using it to sharpen your chisels, you can place it openly for its unique style. A wire edge is a continuous burr that forms when the edge of the tool gets thinner as you sharpen.

Once a gouge is sharp, you should never re-sharpen it unless you break it, chip the edge, or have to re-shape the bevel. Just strop the gouge when needed to maintain a sharp cutting edge. Mac has been teaching carving classes and tool sharpening for more than 15 years. He can be reached at mac woodcarvers. For a complete range of sharpening supplies, visit www.

Discuss this material on the Woodcarving Illustrated forums. Read more about techniques for beginners! Now turn on the grinder, and with the tool parallel to the wheel, touch the tip of the tool. Lay the tool on the rest, and slowly push the gouge toward the wheel. When the tip contacts the wheel, use one hand to keep the tool against the table and rotate the gouge until you reach the other side, and then reverse direction.

As you grind, focus on holding the gouge firmly on the rest and keeping its end square to the wheel. When sparks come over the top of the tool, you should be done. In my opinion, freehand grinding is safer and just as accurate.

The spindle gouge is designed to cut curves, coves, and other detailed profiles on spindles and bowls. Unlike a roughing gouge, this profile has a longer, tapered point, with cut-back shoulders designed to stay clear of the cut.

Sharpening a spindle gouge requires more practice than other tools because the tool is rolled against the grinding wheel while simultaneously being slid up higher on the wheel to grind the wings. Unlike a basic gouge, you cannot simply set the tool on the rest. To facilitate this two-step process, I set my resting hand on the V-rest as shown above left. I think this method keeps your hand a safer distance from the wheel.

With the grinder off, set the gouge on your resting hand and slide it forward until the middle section of the bevel touches the upper half of the wheel, and then allow it to tip away from the wheel. Now with the grinder on, raise the handle until the full bevel touches the wheel. As you rotate the tool, simultaneously push it up on the grinding wheel, as shown. Repeat this process on one side until sparks come over the edge and inside the flute.

Then repeat the procedure on the other side of the bevel. This gouge can also be sharpened freehand, but when establishing a brand-new bevel on a larger gouge, I appreciate help from the Vari-Grind jig. To use the jig, first employ the stop so that the tip projects about 2" from the front of the jig as shown. Now, turn the grinder on, and lower the tool onto the wheel. Grind the tip first, and then pivot and swing the jig in each direction, as shown to create an even grind.

As you can see in the photo, it helps to stand to one side the grinder in order to stay clear of handle. The skew chisel is my go-to tool for most spindle turning. It can be used not only to shape, but also to finish cylinders, V-grooves, beads, and long concave curves.

Since it is a finish-surface tool, a skew must be razor literally, hair-shaving sharp. Rather than using a grinder, I prefer shaping the bevels on either a disc or belt sander outfitted with grit abrasive. Unlike a wheel, these machines maintain the flat bevel. Note: To avoid any chance of fire, remove sawdust from the sander and surrounding area. Repeat this procedure on the opposite face. After grinding both faces, check the bevels, and then make any necessary adjustments so that both bevels are the same length.

After grinding, you'll need to hone the edge. A few passes on each side should do the trick. These days, I also keep a diamond paddle in my apron pocket. This accessory provides a handy way to touch up an edge before making a finishing cut. I find that I can re-hone an edge several times before needing to regrind it.

The trick is knowing when a tool needs a touch-up, before the damage is done. The ability to tell the difference requires a certain amount of experience, especially since some woods are harder to turn than others. One quick way to determine whether a tool is sharp or not is by dragging its edge across your thumbnail.

Nick Cook is a founding member of the American Association of Woodturners, and conducts woodturning workshops across the country. You must be logged in to write a comment.

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