Start with short times and work your way up. Unfortunately the all occurred during prolonged periods of rain and they cupped upward. The alcohol then evaporates faster than water wood, accelerating the drying process. I do not have a kiln or drying box. I am tufning beginning to turn green wood mainly drying wood for turning bowls guide after several years of turning segmented and solid dry wood bowls and found this information very usefulmany thanks for the tips. How long exactly a given bowl will take to dry is dependent on a number of factors: how wet the blank is, how thick the wall and the species of wood all factor into the equation.

In a dream world, we could find a freshly cut tree , process the green wood into bowl blanks , turn a bowl , then set that bowl on the shelf and it will always look like it just came off the lathe.

Fresh cut or green wood contains moisture. For that matter, even logs cuts years ago usually hold moisture to some degree. This moisture inside wood can remain trapped or escape over time, based on many different factors. If not managed, uneven moisture movement causes stresses in the green wood and will likely change the overall shape of a turned bowl, or cause structural failure in the form of cracks, checks, and splits.

Ultimately, we really want to control our green wood bowl turning to fit our specific needs. Once-turned and twice-turned bowls have different characteristics.

The quicker and more abrupt the drying process happens for once-turned bowls, the more chances there are for cracks and unpleasant results. Waiting for full twice-turned bowls to dry is boring and forces us to wait to have the beautiful final turned bowl we are imagining.

With the following methods, we can manage the even moisture equilibrium within our drying green wood bowls. It is possible to take a freshly turned green wood bowl from the lathe and place it on your shelf and it will dry fine without problems. However, this is the exception and will be highly dependent on several factors.

To more closely control and ease the drying process we need to be aware of our enemies. The two biggest enemies are unevenness and environment. If the wood is turned uneven, with thick and thin areas, it is almost impossible to dry these areas smoothly without tension and cracks forming. Controlling the environment is critical to ease the process of drying green wood bowls. Specifically, humidity, heat, moving air, and light are the elements working against us obtaining a crack-free final bowl.

We must protect our new green wood bowl turning from these mean evil forces. The best way to accomplish this is to turn an even bowl shape and protect that turned piece afterward from the natural forces working in opposition. The first route is to turn the wood once and ease the drying process, so the wood does not change too much or too quickly.

We want to avoid causing cracks and splits. With once-turned bowls, because the bowl walls are usually thin and will quickly leach out moisture and potentially dry uneven, we are trying to slow and even out the drying time.

The first turning is deliberately oversized and designed to take the stress of change during drying. A once-turned bowl is a piece of green wood turned into a bowl at final shape and wall thickness. After the turning, the initial form of the bowl is finished at that point. Now, nature takes over. With a once-turned bowl, depending on wall thickness, the piece will dry, move and transform into its finished form as is dries. If the bowl is turned thin, it may shift, warp, and buckle much more noticeably.

This can be a desirable or not-so-desirable effect. Either way, a thin-walled bowl will dry quickly, usually within a few days, and reach its finished look in a short time. Very thin walled bowls can dry in a matter of hours.

It is not recommended to seal the end grain of once turned bowls. Sealing end grain is more important with twice-turned bowls, which we will cover in a moment. Once-turned bowls tend to have a very organic, natural look to them with offset curves and rims that may rise and lower from side to side.

As the name implies, twice-turned green bowls will be turned twice. Why you might ask? To obtain a more accurate round shape for the final bowl. The first turning of a twice-turned bowl will be allowed to thoroughly dry. In the process of drying the bowl will usually pull outward at the pith, contract on the sides and essentially stretch.

Basically, we let the first turned bowl do all the warping, moving, and shaping, then, once dry, turn it a second time to the final shape and final wall thickness. Because the wood, after the first turning and some time, is dry or equalized, the amount of movement after the second turning is minimal. All of the methods below will work for twice-turned bowls. Sealing the end grain of the bowl slows the amount of moisture leaking from the open end grain.

The goal is to have a more even moisture loss from both the side and end grain. Final twice-turned bowls usually look perfectly round with clean circular rims and fresh, crisp lines.

Take a piece of green wood and turn it into a finish shaped bowl or a rough-turned bowl. Set the turned bowl aside. Again, remember every wood species is different, and all the external forces acting on that bowl are always present. Some woods are super cooperative, and you will have no trouble, while others species seem to crack when you look at them wrong.

The finished turned bowl needs to be reasonably uniform in thickness throughout. If, for example, the walls near the rim are thin and the base is thick, more moisture will remain in the base after the thin walls have dried and this can cause uneven stress to crack the bowl. For a final turned bowl, think how the environment will affect the equalizing wood. A low, cool, dark, sealed cupboard will be a much better storage location than a countertop, in the sunlight, near a breezy open door or heat source.

Set the final turned bowl aside and hope for the best. In a few days or weeks, the results will be revealed. I have turned green wood and done nothing else to it afterward, with decent results. The bowls that come to mind were turned from two-year-old cut hickory, so, while green, the wood was much drier than when first cut with the chainsaw.

By the way, there are many aspects to making your chainsaw blade sharp at all times. Check out this article for all the tips to perfectly sharpen your chainsaw. Another contributing factor is the nature of the hickory species, which is a solid and stout structure.

Even though they dried fine without cracks, there was some movement, noticeably waves along the rims. Yes, brown grocery bags work well to allow the wet green wood bowl to release moisture slowly and evenly over time. Because the paper bag breathes, it will gradually release excess moisture and progressively dry, exactly what we need. The paper bag with wet fresh shavings makes a controlled micro-climate for our wet green wood bowl.

Simply collect some wet shaving from the shop floor, preferably the ones from the same bowl, and line a paper grocery bag. Place the bowl or roughed blank inside, cover the bowl with more wet shavings and fold over the bag top and loosely tape the bag shut.

Put this is a cool dark area that has little air movement. A cabinet or cupboard works well. This is an important note. In moist locations with humidity, plastic bags will hold in moisture and most likely cause mold, bacteria and rot to form, not things we want for our beautiful bowls. The exception to the plastic bag rule is severely dry, arid locations, such as the desert. In these locations, plastic bags are used to try to retain moisture in the green wood bowl longer and slow the evaporation process.

For the rest of us, that live in areas where there is a fair amount of relative humidity in the air on a regular basis, paper bags breathe and help regulate the passage of moisture very effectively. The moist, fresh shavings will slow drying but because they are surrounding the bowl, they aid in regulating or buffering the amount and speed at which the moisture leaves the green wood bowl. After a week or so, it is a good idea to move the green wood bowl turning to a new fresh paper bag.

The fresh paper will prevent excess moisture build-up and reduce bacteria or mold formation. Approximately every week or so, days if the piece is thin check the piece and see if it is drying evenly without cracks.

Remove the shavings if they are dried up. Return the turned bowl to a new fresh grocery bag without shavings, close the top, and return it to a quiet area free from too much air movement. Check the moisture content of the wood as we will discuss below and once it equalizes the process is complete. If you have access to a dryer or kiln, this can be a great way to dry twice-turned thicker green wood bowls quickly.

However, again, I suggest experimenting with this process too. Every species will act differently. One bowl might dry beautifully in a dryer, while another may disintegrate. A homemade kiln can be made out of an old refrigerator, an insulated cabinet, or a box made from foam house insulation.

Just cut a vent hole in the old refrigerator base and one in the top and place a light fixture with an incandescent light bulb inside. The heat from the light will slowly dry the wood bowl blanks. A systematic approach for advancing lightbulb sizes can be used to increase the temperature slowly and gradually over the course of several weeks by using progressively larger bulbs.

Start with a 40w bulb, then a 60w and finally a w bulb. Check the moisture content of the wood with a moisture meter or weigh the pieces to determine when they have equalized. Be careful, however. Keep in mind that quick, sudden, unstable changes in the wood structure are what will result in the most problems. So easy does it and the more even everything is along the way, the better.

This method is best suited for drying rough-turned bowls that will later be twice turned to their final shape and form. A kiln or drier can take the drying time for thicker twice-turned bowls from months or even years to only a few weeks.

Microwave drying a wood bowl blank can be done with short times in the microwave at full power, around 30 seconds, followed by cooling time, around 30 minutes. Repeat the process weighing the wood bowl after each session until the weight of the bowl stabilizes. If your bowl or roughed blank will fit into the microwave and if your spouse approves or is unaware you may want to try this technique.

A garage sale microwave, just for drying green wood in your shop might be a better way to avoid domestic disputes. Just saying. Microwave the turned bowl on high for a very short period, seconds. After each session, remove the piece and set it out to cool for at least a half hour. I place the blank on the counter in the kitchen and prop it up on a side so that most of the bowl has good air exposure.

After at least a half hour of cooling, I pop it back in the microwave for another second dose. Repeat this process eight to ten times until the moisture content equalizes and the bowl is dry. During the drying process, this mixture evaporates from the wood very quickly.

This process requires that the bowl is completely submerged in denatured alcohol. A resealable plastic container just big enough to hold the bowl is ideal.

High quality denatured alcohol can be purchased in gallon containers, and enough is needed to completely cover the whole bowl. Soak the bowl for approximately 24 hours before removing the bowl from the denatured alcohol.

After the excess denatured alcohol is no longer dripping from the bowl, place the bowl in a paper grocery bag and press the paper around the bowl snuggly. In my research, I found some people take the time to wrap the bowl in brown craft paper, taping it securely shut with tape, like a wrapped gift. The time it takes the denatured alcohol and water mixture to escape the wood cells in the bowl will vary but can take from one to three weeks. Once the wood does not smell like denatured alcohol, the process should be complete.

Use the techniques described below to determine dryness or the equilibrium of the moisture content in the wood bowl. While I have not tried this technique yet, it appears to be a viable green wood drying solution for both finished once-turned bowls and roughed twice-turned bowls.

Think of the little silica gel packets that come in some product packaging to keep the product dry. Yes, you can purchase large amounts of desiccant and use it in the process of drying green wood bowls. I have a link in my Green Wood Resource Guide for buying desiccant in volume. No need to try to collect 10, little packets from various product packaging. Desiccant drying beads are color-coded, and they change color when they are saturated with moisture.

Desiccant needs to be sealed and not exposed to air ever. If the desiccant beads are left exposed to air, they will suck up the humidity in the air until they become saturated again. To use the desiccant beads to dry a green wood bowl, place a layer of desiccant in a sealable plastic bag and then place the green bowl inside the bag.

Completely cover the bowl with desiccant until the wood bowl is not visible, then tightly seal the plastic bag. Depending on the size, thickness, and shape of the green wood bowl, the desiccant can dry the wood in as little as 24 hours. Check the bowl for dryness and see if the beads have changed color to indicated moisture saturation. If the beads are wet and the bowl is not entirely equalized, bake the beads until dry and do it again.

If the particular wood species you are using is prone to cracking, it is a good idea to seal the end grain immediately after turning the twice-turned rough green wood bowl. Anchorseal is a breathable sealer that allows moisture to slowly escape and it aids in preventing cracking end grain. For the bowls I twice-turn, I seal the end grain liberally inside and out on the roughed bowls.

As the wood drys, it will lose moisture more evenly from the end and unsealed side grain. Without the Anchorseal end-grain sealing application, the green wood pours the moisture primarily out the end grain with very little escaping from the side grain. This unevenness, like unevenly turned bowl walls, causes unbalanced stress and cracking of the turned bowl. Think of the cells and grain of the wood like drinking straws. The end grain is the open end of the straws, and moisture quickly leaves these areas unevenly and causes stress cracks.

Later, when the rough-turned bowl has dried or equalized, it can be turned a second time to the final shape and thickness. At that point, because the green wood has undergone the drying and movement process already, it will stay very close to the final turned appearance with little or no further shapeshifting. However, that can be an elusive and time-consuming sense to acquire. There are two ways to measure for dryness.

A standard wood moisture meter can be used to measure the moisture content in your bowl. The only problem with this method is it can leave small pinprick holes in the bowl surface.

Also, readings taken from different areas of the bowl can reveal very different results. However, I do use a moisture meter to determine very wet wood compared to more dry wood.

The method I find most useful for measuring the dryness of a green wood bowl turning is weighing the bowl. Yes, weighing the bowl will give you the best results because you actually measure the amount of water in the bowl.

I find weighing in grams is the easiest way to get a precise, and easily comparable weight reading each time. Use a small digital scale , like this one , which has a gram reading and weigh the bowl.

On a slip of paper, write the date and the weight in grams. Believe it or not, I had a twice-turned bowl roughed out and placed in a dryer. I kinda forgot about it until one day I decided to pull it out and turn it for the final finished shape.

Everything was fine with the wood, no cracks formed and it turned very well. With the piece complete, I decided to weigh the bowl to measure how much moisture was still inside.

As the days went by and I noted the progress, I was quite surprised. Well, in the time I forgot the roughed bowl in the dryer, the green wood went past the point of equilibrium, and the wood cells held less moisture than the relative surrounding air humidity. When the bowl was removed from the dryer and returned to the relatively moist air it began absorbing that moisture and gained weight, just like a dry kitchen sponge soaking up water.

The moisture weight gain was minimal and did not change the bowl shape or structure enough to notice, but it was a great example of how the wood is never truly dry and always evolving.

I hope this article gives you new ideas for how to work with green wood. There are many advantages to working with green wood, but most importantly, remember to experiment. Without committing too much time, simply turn a few pieces and try drying them a couple different ways. Take notes about your drying processes so you can recall what works.

Green wood is fantastic to turn, low on flying dust, easy on tools, and usually very affordable, as in FREE. Awareness of the changes that take place once the green wood is turned is the key.

It is important to realize a transformation is taking place from a living structure to a more static artistic form. The transition between these states must be acknowledged and respected. With a bit of experimenting and knowledge about how wet green wood dries, or equalizes to the surrounding ambient conditions, we can more reliably make fantastic green wood bowls.

While it might seem a bit frustrating, while striving for the best looking bowls possible, cracks and mishaps are going to happen. Learn from them. Happy Turning , Kent. Hi, Kent, Great video on microwave drying. I put it in the microwave watts for 15 seconds and it was rather warm when I took it out. Weighed it, waited an hour, did it again, and it came out with a number of cracks. Two quick questions: 1 Is there a way to tell or guess at how much time should be used for each microwave cycle?

Equally obvious, both the wood and the size of the bowl impact the drying cycle. Perhaps I should start with very short times and work up based on how warm the bowl is at the end of each cycle? Supposedly, this treatment reacts with the moisture in the wood and turns it into a stable gel and prevents cracks.

It is marketed by a company called Cedarcide, designed for any type of wood and allows the use of just about any finish once it dries in about 72 hours. It is reportedly used by a commercial company in Hawaii who struggled for years with turned bowls that would crack when moved to a much less humid location in the mainland. I was unable to find a place on your website to establish an account, as the login requires an email address and a password that obviously has to be established before logging on.

Brian, It sounds like you are doing to the right thing by paying attention to the process and keeping notes. Remember every wood is different as well as conditions. I am just beginning to turn green wood mainly maple after several years of turning segmented and solid dry wood bowls and found this information very useful , many thanks for the tips.

I live down under in Australia and am a relatively new wood turner March and because of Covid19 am self taught. I love reading your posts and have gained an enormous amount of information on how to turn wood. Thank you. I am fortunate that I have access to quite a bit of free wood in log form and have been reading your articles on preparing green wood bowl blanks.

My question is; Does it make any difference to the drying time, if I remove the bark completely or should it be left on. Great question. The bark is a tricky thing. If it is firmly holding onto the wood, you can leave it. If it is loose and breaking off, take it all off.

I have found that loose bark invites more insects and critters to hide and it also holds moisture. It really depends on the tree species. Thanks for asking. Thanks for the great info, Kent. For the microwave drying technique, do you also anchor seal the end grain of those bowls prior to microwaving? Or do you just use anchor seal on the end grain for air drying? No, I would not use Anchorseal if using the microwave technique. Kent, Thanks again for your breadth of knowledge and outstanding formats of education.

I recently stumbled on your YouTube videos. Very nice. The installer cannot use them. I am looking to salvage the retreads if at all possible. Can I use a kiln to dry out the retreads and will they straighten out? Is there any advice that anyone can offer to help me out of this expensive error. I was … Read more ». Ouch, that sounds like a very unfortunate turn of events! I do not believe that simply drying them or otherwise adjusting the moisture content will be the standalone solution.

You might try a combination of weight and lowering moisture content. Maybe someone else can chime in with better ideas. While traveling the Great Lakes, I visited a colonial style boat building display.

They were using a homemade steam box to heat the wood to allow it to be bent around the bow of the boat. Would it be possible to steam the boards, the lay them on a flat surface with good stripping and weight on the top to force them back straight?

Might salvage by planing thinner or squaring up 2-inch strips and edge-gluing. Not a bad look and done historically for more stable surface. A good experiment is to take a thin, partially-seasoned, plain-sawn Pine board, throw it on a moist lawn on sunny day and see how fast it cups.

Turn it over … Read more ». Cut the boards into 2 in strips alternate the cup and glue back together. Lots of work but the only way to eliminate cup. Honestly I would advise getting them as wet as possible then weighing them down heavy and letting them dry, steaming would be most effective followed by weight.

At what mc can I do the heat treatment? I just picked up 4 , 6 x 6 posts 10 foot long to replace front porch pillars. Green treated. What is the best way to dry these before use? If so, leave that bad boy in the sun for an hour or so, the slime will dry off quick, just be sure to install them not long after. Drying bowls is a different process than flat slabs of wood. Keep rough turned bowl inside a paper bag or double bag for sensitive species and then weigh it intermittently until the piece stops loosing water weight.

After that, it should be ready for final turning. Several good schools o f thought here — I turn wet Cherry to the finished dim and shape then use planer chips from a hardwood Walnut pack the piece tightly in these shavings in a paper bag and inspect a month later.

Uaually I win! But this year there have been some bigger limbs coming … Read more ». I believe that kiln drying walnut actually causes some colors to be lost, your best bet, with regards to color, is to air dry the material. Walnut color is highly variable depending on growing conditions.

Sapwood is a pale gray color and can take up at least a few inches of the outer edge of the stem. Has any one else dried wood in a microwave? I play with a lathe and have have had good luck cooking small raw pieces. Red cedar scents the shop kitchen too. I will be sawing beams from sourthern pine for timber frame. Up to 30ft. A year for each inch in thickness is the standard drying time for all timber. Great job there. Easier to slice through than Ironbark!.

I just bought rough cut lumber to build a wall in my basement is there anything I need to do to prepare it. I just got 2 8 ft long planks of wood with crusty bark on the edges. Should I seal the ends with something while it dries? I plan slow on drying it in my house and Drying Wood For Turning Bowls 77 then making shelves with the wood. Any other advice about drying or working with these planks is appreciated. I recently acquired two dozen or so logs of silver maple. I sealed the ends with end grain dealer within about 24 hours of them being cut down.

Skip to content. Drying Wood at Home. Drying times can vary significantly depending upon wood species, initial moisture level, lumber thickness, density, ambient conditions, and processing techniques. In situations where green wood is to be processed into usable boards, especially in the case of thicker lumber , a kiln is frequently used to control the drying process. While there are various types of kilns used to dry lumber, the basic premise is usually the same: a large insulated chamber or room is used to balance and control humidity, temperature, and airflow to safely and efficiently bring wood down to an acceptable moisture content.

The main advantage of a kiln is that with the increased temperature and airflow—all while carefully maintaining and controlling the ambient humidity—the wood can be dried much more evenly, minimizing any sort of moisture gradient between the outer shell which dries very quickly and the inner core which slowly equalizes moisture with the shell.

Drying defects But kiln drying may also introduce internal stresses into the wood—particularly if an improper kiln schedule is used, or if corrective measures are not employed—resulting in a condition known as case-hardening. This defect is caused when the outer shell begins to dry faster than the core: the shell tries to shrink, but is inhibited by the still-wet core. If the moisture difference between the core and the shell is too great, the shell can dry in a stretched condition.

Later, as the core eventually begins to dry and shrink, the condition is reversed, and the stretched shell prohibits the core from completely shrinking. In extreme instances of case-hardening, the core can split and check in an irreversible condition called honeycombing. Kiln drying wood at elevated temperatures also has many other secondary effects as well, such as killing powderpost beetles a destructive wood pest in all stages of their development.

For most woodworkers, running their own kiln to quickly dry lumber may be impractical or excessive. In most instances, simply storing project lumber at a targeted humidity level is the best option to ensure it will be at the correct EMC when building time comes. However, in some cases, such as when processing logs or other green wood into lumber, a more meticulous procedure will need to be followed.

Home air-drying tips Process logs in a timely fashion. Bark on whole logs can act as a natural moisture-barrier, and if left unsawn, can contribute to fungal decay and deterioration in some species. A hallmark of poorly processed, do-it-yourself lumber is the presence of spalted or partially rotted wood. Cut the wood slightly oversized.

Remember that wood shrinks as it dries. Seal the ends. In addition to processing logs in a timely manner to prevent stain and decay due to excessive moisture, the opposite is also to be avoided: allowing the wood to dry out too quickly will result in splits and endgrain checking. It is important to remember that moisture escapes from wood about 10 to 12 times faster on the ends than through other surfaces. Sealing the endgrain forces the moisture to exit in a slower, more uniform manner.

Although there are specially formulated endgrain sealers on the market, just about anything will do in a pinch: paraffin wax, polyurethane, shellac, or even latex paint can be used to seal the endgrain surface. The key is to build up a thick, obstructing film that will inhibit moisture from escaping at the ends of the board. In order to minimize the risk of checking, it is best practice to coat lumber ends within minutes—not hours or days—after coming off the saw.

Stack and sticker. Add weight. The lumber at the bottom of the stack is probably weighed down sufficiently by the wood on top of it, but boards near the top greatly benefit from added weight. Weighing the stack of wood down helps to prevent warping or distortion, which is especially important during the initial drying phase when going from green to an ambient EMC. Neatly and properly stacking, stickering, and weighing wood will go a long way towards ensuring that the drying process will result in flat, stable, and usable lumber.

This small stack of buckthorn Rhamnus cathartica half-logs has just been cut, stacked, stickered, and sealed with a water-based wax emulsion coating. Add heat once EMC is reached. This can be as simple as moving the lumber stack from a garage or shed into a heated basement indoors. A drying cabinet can be nothing more than a simple wood cabinet with an incandescent lightbulb on a dimmer to finely control the light output—which in turn dictates both internal temperature and consequently relative humidity.

Many thermometers both traditional and digital sold by big-box retailers also feature a hygrometer with a somewhat accurate readout of the relative humidity; the ability to know the RH of both the drying cabinet and the wood shop proves to be a helpful and prudent investment. A good way to visualize the tendencies of wood during drying and shrinking is to picture the arc of the growth rings trying to flatten themselves out. This of course is not actually the cause of the shrinkage, but it serves as a good memory tool to help visualize dimensional changes.

This endgrain view of plum Prunus domestica exhibits cupping. The board was initially cut flat, with the top and bottom originally being parallel. Further machining will be necessary to ensure the board is flat and square. The results of uneven shrinkage vary depending upon the particular shape and grain orientation of the board; flatsawn boards become cupped, riftsawn square stock becomes diamond-shaped, and circular dowels become ovoid.

Additionally, there are a number of warping issues that can occur which are not solely related to uneven shrinkage. In certain cases, a pre-existing flaw is present in the wood itself, which is only brought out and made apparent by the drying process. This can result in defects such as: bow, crook, twist, or a combination of two or more defects simultaneously. Regardless of the specific names that can be applied to distorted lumber, most drying-related warping issues can at least be minimized using a few simple guidelines: Use proper stacking techniques.

As mentioned previously, by far the most important deterrent to warp is the adequate stacking, stickering, and weighing of a lumber stack.

Avoid juvenile wood. There is no officially determined width of juvenile wood, usually excluding the first few central growth rings is sufficient , but generally, the further the wood is cut from the pith, the better.

Much like the pith itself, juvenile wood is very unstable, and has an elevated rate of longitudinal shrinkage; this increased shrinkage rate pulls against the mature wood and causes it to contract and deform either along the face of the board bow , or along the side of the board crook. Avoid processing branches or leaning trees. This abnormal wood is called reaction wood, and it can cause a number of unpredictable warping problems during drying.

In softwoods, reaction wood forms on the underside of a branch or trunk, and is called compression wood. Conversely, in hardwoods, just the opposite is true: its reaction wood forms on the topside and is called tension wood.

Avoid knots. Simply put, knots are sections in the trunk where limbs once grew. In addition to shrinking unevenly or possibly coming loose during drying, leaving a knothole , knots can also create areas of concentrated abnormalities in the wood grain, and consequently impact its shrinkage properties.

The presence of large knots can result in dramatic and exaggerated warp during drying. Handle spiral or interlocked grain with care. Some wood species have what is called spiral or interlocked grain. Just as the name implies, the wood fibers grow in a twisted or interlocking manner. Not surprisingly, this can result in drying problems, most commonly twist—where one of the corners of a board is raised up out of the plane of the other three corners.

Careful drying, along with proper stacking, stickering, and weighing can help alleviate difficulties caused by irregular or spiral grain. Identifying and Using Hundreds of Woods Worldwide. It contains many of the most popular articles found on this website, as well as hundreds of wood profiles—laid out with the same clarity and convenience of the website—packaged in a shop-friendly hardcover book.

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