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We chose to do this for two reasons. First, it would increase the strength of the build and second it would allow a larger surface for us to secure the sides. Again, this is a design preference. Make it look the way you want it to. Notice how the board at the inside of the knee cutout spans the width of the desk? This all depends tremendously on your specific build but let me share just a few tips from our experience with this.

I then, very carefully, cut out that hole just inside the trace line so that the hole was slightly smaller than the plate. Pretty sweet! We approached fan holes with two different methods. When there were two fans side by side we chose to cut out a rectangle just big enough for the fans to fit through since we were going to be covering those with these cool metal plate covers anyway.

You can do this by hand with a drill but I highly recommend a small, inexpensive drill press for this. There is an amazing amount of torque produced when using a hole saw and I have had my wrist twisted and my knuckles busted more times than I can count while cutting holes in my attic and walls. A drill press ensures a clean, even cut and just makes this whole process go more smoothly.

We bought a WEN drill press off of Amazon and it works great. You can click here for the latest price on this drill press. As for cable routing, we got really creative with this one. I chose to cut a hole under the motherboard itself and then elevate the motherboard off the bottom using a sheet of acrylic and some stainless sign standoff posts like I mentioned earlier. In fact, embrace finding creative solutions.

Our approach worked out great with the cables from the motherboard wrapping underneath it and disappearing from view, routed discreetly out of the case to the bottom where we mounted our power supply. We liked the look of the elevated motherboard so much that we ended up elevating the GPU and the hard drive as well. Once we added the LED lighting into our system, those sheets of frosted acrylic really shined and turned out to be one of the showcase points of our build.

The power button Crown Molding Miter Clamps Difference was a simple matter of drilling a hole just large enough for the threaded part to fit through then securing it from the back with the included nut. Hand tightening was all that was needed and it fits flush on the front panel. The one thing I wish I would have done differently here is when I cut the holes and planned it so that the ports were flush with the top of the inside bottom plate.

If I had put it lower next to the power button I could have run those cables under the desk and not had them inside. Live and learn. What I mean by dry fit is that we are not actually securing the sides to the desk bottom with glue or finish nails. We are just going to use stuff we have lying around to hold them in place so that we can make sure the build is square and level.

Just take your time and go over each piece carefully, starting with a heavier grain sandpaper if you need to but finishing it off with a fine or so grit. Exciting, right? I recommend starting with the side and front panels. I used a speed square and framing square again for this as I was gluing these on to make certain that I had a true degree angle at the corners and that the panels were standing true at 90 degrees. Some builders use only glue to secure the side panels.

I prefer to use a 23 gauge pin finish nailer to tack them in place. If you have an air compressor, you can usually purchase a 23 gauge pin nailer on Amazon. Battery powered nailers are more expensive but they do offer the additional benefit of not being tied to an air compressor.

Whatever route you choose in securing the side panels, there is one tip I want to encourage you to consider when it comes to the corners and that is the use of small metal corner brackets at the top corners where the side panels meet.

They really pull the corners tight and hold the build solid. Now that you have your desk assembled, do some quick measurements to ensure one last time that it is square and level. This is as easy as measuring the width and depth of the desktop, again always double checking each end and the middle to ensure they are the same.

We ordered our glass from a local glass shop that repairs windows, etc. Although we went with a non-tempered glass, you should really consider tempered glass for your build. We used a basic high gloss black spray paint for our desk PC case build but there are a ton of options out there.

However, looking back, I should have just done it. It would have given it a more finished look for the rare occasion when someone is under the desk.

When the painting is done it is a good idea to go over the entire build with a couple of coats of polyurethane. Generally it is recommended that you sand lightly between coats. So here we are… your desk is built. If Crown Molding Miter Clamps Zoom you have planned your build out well, this will go fairly smooth.

Everything already has a place. All you have to do is start mounting. There are a gazillion YouTube videos on this and though we are building in a desk instead of a traditional case, the process of connecting the various components together is essentially the same. If you do require instructions on how to connect components, this YouTube video goes into great detail outlining each component, what it Crown Molding Miter Clamps Quiz does, and demonstrating how to hook them together.

Although he is building in a traditional PC desktop case, the connection process for components is the same. I want you to take your time with this step. Yes, you are very close and I know you are anxious to fire your new system up but the hallmark of a clean system design lies in cable management. Depending on how you decided to route your cables during the design phase you will want to group them together and run them directly out of the system or to the component that the terminate in as straight of a line as possible.

A great tip for managing cables inside the system is the use of Velcro straps that you wrap around the bundle of cables to keep them together. Since our cables were manged on the underside of the desk, we simply bundled them and stapled pieces of some old straps to the desk to hold the cables in place. You can purchase straps like these very inexpensively on Amazon. While most LED strips come with a sticky surface intended for this purpose, they are not actually designed to stick to wood and we noticed the strips starting to hang after a few days.

Super glue resolves this issue once and for all. For a less permanent solution, hot glue is fantastic. The two-sided tape that college students often use to hang pictures on dorm room walls also works very well. I actually recommend you power your system up and test it before adding the glass top just to make sure everything is connected and working as intended. Regardless, this is the moment you have been waiting for — when you finally see your creation, something you conceptualized and created, come into being.

Enjoy your new build and share your journey and creation with others by sending pics and links of your YouTube videos to me so that others can be inspired by your new Desk PC. Stay tuned! I'm just a dad who wanted to build something unique with his son.

Together we built an awesome Desk PC - literally a computer built into a desk. I want to show you how to do the same thing! Building a gaming PC setup is intensely exciting. Most gamers focus on components. Building your best gaming experience is more than choosing graphics cards, processors, and ram.

From the internal components of your machine to the lighting in your game room, the best gaming comes Skip to content As an Amazon Associate this website earns from qualifying purchases. And you can absolutely do it. But how do you build a DIY desk pc? There are 15 basic steps to building your own desk PC case. Step 1 — Design your dream workstation Step 2 — Choose your building material Step 3 — Calculate measurements Step 4 — Gather your tools Step 5 — Check and double check your measurements Step 6 — Cut out each piece for the desk assembly Step 7 — Dry fit the build to make sure everything is square and level Step 8 — Sand the pieces to get them paint or stain ready Step 9 — glue and nail the final build together Step 10 — Measure for and order glass Step 11 — Paint the desk shell Step 12 — Mount computer hardware Step 13 — Route and manage cables Step 14 — Add LED lighting Step 15 -Apply glass and power it up!

Step 1 — Design your dream workstation! If you would like the option of mounting your monitor s to the desk instead of having them sit on top it is easier and safer to mount them to wood than to glass. Step 2 — Choose your building material There are arguments for and against metal vs. Metal corner brackets — I highly recommend these as they ensure a sturdy build and help to keep the frame square when transporting.

We used about a dozen of these for the inside of the desk and the leg frames. It not only hid the unfinished sides of the wood but allowed us to mount LED lights facing down into the system that was mostly hidden from view. Paint or stain — depending on how you plan to finish your build. Step 4 — Gather your tools With your materials onsite it is time to get to work. A few essential tools you will need include: Tape measure Framing Square or speed square Electric screwdriver Electric drill Skill saw Wood glue Jigsaw Safety Goggles Additional recommended tools that can make the build process go a little easier include: Table saw Miter saw Finish Nailer I prefer to use a pin nailer style finish nailer.

Step 6 — Let the cutting begin! Just focus.

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