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05.01.2021JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. Huge moving trucks, wrestling giant pieces of furniture up and down stairs, and friendships strained because of help requests are just some of the headaches.
What if you could build a suite full of furniture that could knock down to a pile of boards that would fit in the back end of a minivan, fit through any doorway and not have any piece heavier than 8 or 10 pounds? K-D, not RTA. But, cross dowel joinery is different. Cross dowel joints can be taken apart and put back together hundreds of times without any loss of strength.
As an example, I have a workbench I use for trade show displays that has been set up and torn down at least times over the last 20 years…completely built with cross dowels. The trick in cross dowel joinery is getting the hole for the cross dowel exactly centered with the bolt hole. The end guide bushing directs your drill bit perfectly straight for the bolt hole and the side guide bushing does the same for the cross dowel insertion hole. You can position the bolt hole in the mating piece to give you a flush fitting face or an offset.
With a stopped hole you can make the joint virtually invisible, or with a through hole the cross dowel is visible from both sides. The stainless cross dowels look great and will keep looking great regardless of your environment.
Scales for locating the bushings are calibrated in both Imperial and Metric measurements. Indicators are laser-cut into the stainless steel locating washers, making it easy to position the jig on your centerline and hit your measurements accurately.
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