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01.02.2021Shopping cart Close. You have no items in your shopping cart. All Categories. Menu Close. Back Woodworking Bench End Vise Machine Power Tools. Back Cordless Drill 6 Corded Drill 6. Back Demolition Hammer 6 Rotary Hammer 8. Back Auto Body Repair. Economical price clamp-on vises for wholesale. Wholesale Price - The more you buy, the more you save. Qty: i h. Add to wishlist. Free shipping. Delivery date: days. Related products. Affordable price C clamp or G clamp for sale.
C-clamp with quick-release button for fast adjustment, available in the clamping capacity 4 inch, 5 inch, 6 inch and 8 inch, drop forged heat-treated steel construction, durable and rust-resistant, ideal for holding wood or metal pieces firmly. Cheap bar clamps or F clamps for sale. To mill the other long side I flipped the workpiece upside down as shown in the second picture. The location of the V-groove in the vise jaw and the length of the foot the short leg of the angle iron conspire to make this possible.
If the dimensions hadn't worked out I could have kept the workpiece in the "foot-up" orientation and slid the workpiece to the other side of the jaws. Next I did the "foot" of the Vise Grip Clamps Woodworking Question clamp, the part that rests on the milling table. This is probably the most important dimension, but even here there's room for some slop. I clamped the "long leg" of the workpiece in the vise, being careful to clamp on the straight part of the angle iron, not up near the corner where the thickness changes.
I positioned the clamp near the center of the vice to keep the clamping force balanced and avoid twisting the movable jaw. The desired length of the foot per the drawing is 0. I knew I cut the foot longer than that with the hacksaw, so there is some spare stock at the end of the foot to work with. First I squared the bottom of the foot by skimming it with the cutter, just like I squared the long sides in step 3 except along X in stead of along Y.
I cut from the left of the workpiece to the right, to stay with conventional milling. Once it was flat along the whole bottom of the foot I measured the foot height with calipers I wiped the reference surfaces with a rag so the swarf wouldnt throw off the reading.
This measurement told me how much material I had to remove. I took it off in 0. Here it is with all three faces in order and all the edges of those faces filed smooth. Now it's all over but the slotting. For the slotting, I set it up like this.
It's nice to have the workpiece roughly centered in the jaws, because it gives even clamping pressure, not so much twisting force on the movable jaw. I want the slot in the middle of the clamp, so I measured the final, actual width of the clamp, located the edge, and positioned the spindle at the X axis center of the clamp. Lock the X gibs here, we'll just be moving in Y and Z for a while. Touch off against the "inside" of the foot. Remember to compensate for the radius of the edge finder.
Drill bits are easier to sharpen than milling cutters, so I drilled holes to hog out most of the metal for the slot. I know the drawing shows a 0. With the spindle running, I lowered the center-cutting cutter down into the existing hole at one end of the slot, then moved it to the hole at the other end.
I went back and forth in the slot, going down about 0. Then I widened the slot by about 0. I cut the spiral clockwise, to ensure that I was always conventional milling. Note: For the pics in this step I'm showing a clamp where I tried a shorter slot with just two holes pre-drilled.
It's working fine, though I think I prefer the longer slot. It was cheap and it came with three pies. I cut it to length with the hacksaw and cleaned up the cut edges with a file. Oh nice! I demand you write up some more milling projects and details ; Good work.
All of my vises either have bolt down slots or ears but when I have to clamp stuff to my table that doesn't I just use a setup clamp set. I loved it, a very clever and easy to make idea. May I ask if you have experienced some sliding or loosening while machining?
The biggest disadvance with it is that the clamping force has Vise Grip Clamps Woodworking Instructions 2 directions: down and sideways. The optimal design of such device is to only have a downward force. I would try to make grooves on it increase friction , and with a D-shaped bushing, the mounting screw can have all of the force directed down to the T-nut.
I have also seen an another one with two screws, one is adujsting the height, while the other one is going to the T-nut. Can flex more than your design Thanks, I love things who make me thinking! I like it!
I'm definitely going to make a set. Much better than that way more complicated clamp design at littlemachineshop sorry guys, your site is otherwise awesome. One thing that puzzles me, though. I'm no machinist, so call me dumb, but please answer: how do the clamps ensure that the vise is correctly aligned at 90 degrees to the table?
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction. Thanks, and yeah it's a pretty simple design :- It's so simple that it does not square your vise for you. But then, neither do the LMS ones littlemachineshop. Squaring the vise is separate from holding down the vise. Squaring is done by you, by sweeping the fixed jaw with a dial test indicator and gently tapping the vise until the DTI measures no deflection from one end of the jaw to the other. Each time you get the vise a little more square, tighten the clamps slightly and remeasure since tightening the clamps can move Best Woodworking Bench Vises Machine the vise.
Any chance you could convert the drawing to a PDF? I'm trying to post your project to my site projectsinmetal. Thanks in advance, Tyler. Excellent, thank you.
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