I liked how you combined the bui,d materials in that awesome Bad Axe. Typically I use a Veritas double marking gauge but it appears Ion the back handle bar I may have to do a direct transfer from the tenons. Now, what about the design and mechanics? Build your own frame saw dataset still baffles me why wood workers make sw saws with only those little rounded corners to hold onto? My cord of choice is braided polyethylene fishing line, whose low stretch and small diameter makes it an excellent choice for tensioning these saws. Leave a reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.

How wide should the middle of the finished front handle piece be? The cut list has the dimensions before you cut out the handles, but not the finished width. It looks to be around half the width of the bracket, but I would rather be more sure before I cut it. Tom: thanks for your quick response! I meant the distance between the left mortise and right mortise, or the distance between the left arm and right arm.

Eric, thanks for the question. The width of the frame arm is noted on pg. Hope that helps- Send me a pic when you get it finished! All the best. Tom, Very nice example! Question please — Would you expound on the angle of your handles? Did you find the downward angle towards the saw frame worked better? Would there be advantages or disadvantages for angling the handles away from the saw frame? If you build another frame-saw, how would you execute the handles? Thanks, Gary.

Gary , thanks for the interest. I find these handles extremely comfortable in use. But the angle and splay of my original design in my last book, remained consistent. Or maybe another hand tool is better suited? Siavosh, thanks for the question. I also have a in. I chipped both on the back end but managed to get them glued back in. Any tips for this part? Josh, Thanks for the question. Are you chopping the mortises? If so, try drilling out the waste first and then use a chisel to square and clean up.

Make sure your chisel is super sharp and take smaller bites. Best of luck. I probably have been too aggressive.

I sometimes get the mallet on my hand and feel like I should swing it as hard as I can. I hope to get to shaping this weekend and get it oiled and ready to use next week. Thanks again. Thank you so much for your quick reply, things run very well at my shop but not in the country, you know, this mad world……..

Some time I spoke to him about other stuff and I was very pleased with his advice. I know another page to buy this bits in new condition, at germany:. And I will not be long to get them, I think the brace is a funny and useful tool, when I do, I will be sharing with you my minds. Hello Mr Fidgen. Thanks for sharing this wonderful videos, it is a great effort from your side. I liked how you combined the fasteners materials in that awesome Bad Axe.

They look good. Tom Greetings! Watching your last few sessions s is really enjoyable. Thanks Can you give me a lead on where I can find a decent set of auger bits? I just acquired my first brace. Thanks for your time. Joe, thanks for the comments and question. Great video Tom. I was surprised to see how you draw a mark on both sides of the handle with compass. Always learn new things! Hardware: The hardware is precisely made from premium materials for long and useful life, and includes: Two stainless steel blade holders.

Two sets of stainless steel bolts, washers, and nuts to secure blade to blade holders. Two stainless steel pins to secure blade holder in handle. Leather washers: The two leather washers go between the handles and the arms, preventing wear and rotation between the two.

Tensioning cord: Although natural fibers were the traditional choice for tensioning these saws, modern science has given us other choices that work extraordinarily well. My cord of choice is braided polyethylene fishing line, whose low stretch and small diameter makes it an excellent choice for tensioning these saws. Cord is charcoal color. Blades: Available in two sizes, with custom lengths available upon request. Blades are bright steel; this is not a fine polish or mirror finish, but is perfectly serviceable.

They can be used as they come, or sanded to a more polished finish before sharpening. To make starting easier, a short length at the front of the blade is left untoothed. Unsharpened blades have the teeth punched, but need to be jointed, sharpened, and set. Taper triangular saw files for sharpening the teeth are available here. Sharpened blades are jointed, set, and sharpened to my high standards, and are ready to cut, but may require side dressing to fine tune the tracking.

Premium spring steel, hardened and tempered to Rc Blades are NOT taper ground. Blades feature an untoothed section at the front of the blade for easy and accurate starts. Complete kit: The complete Danish frame saw kit combines the hardware, leather washers, tensioning cord, and blade of your choice for everything except the wood needed to build a frame saw thet will last for generations, and at a modest savings over buying them separately.

Lumber for wood frame: Wood is not included. Many species of wood will work, although woods with high bending strengths are preferred for the arms. I favor elm, but ash, hickory, and beech are also excellent choices. For the stretcher, lightweight woods are preferred; pine, cedar, and basswood all work well. See the construction plans and notes for the Danish frame saw for the required dimensions of the wood stock.

Build resources: Construction plans and notes are freely available for your use; if you'd like a little more guidance, consider the video below, Build Your Own Classic Frame Saws , which I shot with Popular Woodworking.

Rockler Door Hinges Brick Moulding Router Bit Js Wood Workshop Safety Rules Data