This tutorial for how to build a custom picture frame with baseboard and decorative trim moulding makes a great, ornate DIY frame for canvases.  It has been in desperate Make A Picture Frame From Moulding Quest need of a frame for years. I’ve priced out custom frames for a canvas this big it was easily going to cost us $ I just couldn’t bring myself to pay that much. We bought raw picture frame moulding when we lived in Tuscaloosa to frame it, with the best intentions of making a frame we attempted to cut it and it was an absolute disaster. We ended up throwing away $50 worth of moulding in that failed project. So the frame went on the back burner for years. But, I’m currently on a mission to check off all of those “one day” projects in our home, and this one was up n. To make this picture frame I’m using an 8’ select pine 1×2 you can get at most home improvement stores. I started by cutting it in half as you can get two 8×10 frames from one board. But I’d actually recommend cutting all your material directly in half at 90 degrees before adjusting your miter saw.  Lastly I lined up the 8” pieces and cut them to size to complete my four frame parts. d) Glue the Corners of Picture Frames. Since this is a DIY version for how to make a picture frame, I didn’t use any special clamps for this one, just tape for the glue up. I lined up the parts end to end and used tape on the outside corners where each piece met. This let me fold up the joint without the parts moving. For our picture frame moulding we are using a 3/4″ roundover bit in the router table and we are also using dado blades in the table saw. The dado blades will cut a rabbet and it will also cut a dado that will house a decorative wood inlay. In the woodworking video we can see how the woodworker takes a flat board and turns it into picture frame moulding ready to be mitered. We can pay attention to how the woodworker sets up featherboards to control the cutting action on the router table and on the table saw. Then we can view how a sacrificial fence is used when cutting dadoes on the table saw a. Lay the matted and backed artwork face up on a table. I picturd went back with wood glue and painted a little into any gaps in the corners when the frame was laying upside down. I wanted my frame to have an antiqued look to it, pictuee I gave the frame build a picture frame from moulding zip base coat of black matte paint. We put them on the raised part of the back of each baseboard to give us a little thicker wood to screw through. If you want to check out more of my DIY project, click here.

This canvas is older than both of my children and has now hung in four different homes. We originally bought it when we lived in Tuscaloosa at a charity auction — it reminded us of our bedroom and we knew it would be the perfect focal piece hanging in between a window and a door on an empty wall.

Coincidentally, it now hangs between the door and the window in the master bedroom in our forever home. It has been in desperate need of a frame for years. We bought raw picture frame moulding when we lived in Tuscaloosa to frame it, with the best intentions of making a frame…we attempted to cut it and it was an absolute disaster. So the frame went on the back burner for years.

So, a few weeks ago, we tackled this one with a ton of success. Now, from here, you could definitely go on and glue all of your moulding in place and cut everything at once.

I chose not to do that because…. Once you have your measurement, cut your first baseboard on a miter saw with an inward-facing 45 degree angle on each side. The inside of your baseboard should equal the rounded up measurement of your canvas — so the inside top of the baseboard pictured above is Line this up on one side of your cut piece of baseboard as pictured above , making the decorative piece overhang the top of the baseboard by.

This will give your frame a ledge to hide any gap between the canvas and the width of the frame. Use a measuring tape to go back and forth a few times before marking off your cut on the other side. Make your cut at that line and temporarily put back in place on your baseboard to ensure that it fits correctly.

I thought we were going to have to nail the decorative moulding onto the baseboard, but simple wood glue ended up being enough hold! Brush on a decent amount of wood glue with a sponge brush and place both pieces of moulding in place.

Repeat this three more times for the other sides of the frame. Just sand down the ends to make sure everything is even. Careful not to take any length off, though! Once everything is dry and sanded, lay out your frame upside down.

The baseboards have a slight angle to them, so I used scrap pieces of moulding under each side to make the frame corners line up. Carefully lift the corners and glue each angle together with wood glue.

I also went back with wood glue and painted a little into any gaps in the corners when the frame was laying upside down. Mark the lengths on the outside edges of the moldings and cut the degree corners in a miter box Photo 1. Cut degree corners on your molding using a fine-tooth saw and a miter box. Make all measurements on the outside of the molding according to the article.

When all four pieces are cut, check to be sure the sides are exactly the same length and the top and bottom pieces are exactly the same, too. Apply enough clamping pressure to close the mitered corners. Clamp the molding pieces together with a band clamp. Protect the corners with small pieces of cardboard.

Allow the glue to cure overnight, then remove the clamp. Use a nail set to sink the brad heads slightly below the surface of the wood. These help reinforce the glue faint. If your frame is unfinished, go ahead and finish it now. I had a hardware store cut single-strength window glass for these picture frames.

Special types of non-glare glass and ultraviolet light filtering glass known as conservation clear glass can be cut to fit your frame at glass supply stores and picture frame supply stores, for about 50 percent more than window glass. Start by cleaning the glass twice on each side. Use a glass cleaning solution and wipe the glass dry with crumpled newspaper.

I know it sounds strange, but it really works! Lay the matted and backed artwork face up on a table. Place the glass on top of the artwork. Carefully remove any dust from the glass and artwork with a clean paint brush. Place the frame over the glass and artwork, then reach under the frame and lift everything up into the frame.

Reexamine the pieces for any remaining dust and clean again if necessary. You can insert them with a pair of pliers, but be sure to protect the wood as shown. Be sure to take into account the width of the saw blade. Skill saws will take off a good chunk of your line width if not factored in. If they are looser measurements, it's not as much of a concern. Pretty straightforward. Warning: do not get so carried away that your end up changing the angles.

This is simply to get rid of burrs. Using strong wood glue I used quick setting Gorilla wood glue, which sets in about 30 minutes and cures overnight , adhere each corner as lined up as possible. I smear with my finger to remove excess and get a more even coat. The pieces like to slide around and move out of place.

Don't let them! They're fancy wood but you can tell them what to do. Use clamps to evenly apply pressure around the frame and keep squareness as it dries. You can also tape around the exterior of the whole frame to keep it in place.

Have plexiglass cut, or cut it yourself to fit. Plex isn't a MUST but it can be nice to avoid potential direct contact with your art, photo, diploma, signed letter from Beyonce. Insert glass, matte board if wanted , thing being framed, backing board and finally glazing points. These are an inexpensive way to insure that your beautiful hard work doesn't fall out of the back. Here is a slow video about how to insert. You can also push in with a screwdriver or chisel.

Attach wire or desire hanging mechanism to back. I am looking at tools to buy for this project. When you say "skill saw", am I looking to buy a skilman saw, or a miter saw? And what are you referring to when you say "skill saw and stop"? What is a miter box?

Cheap Table Saws At Home Depot 200 Do It Yourself Garden Planter Boxes Price Diy Folding Woodworking Bench Video Makita Cordless 23 Gauge Pin Nailer Light