After much research about metal vs. So I would be worried about the potential static electricity arc from your PVC pipe to that outlet. If I ever have to take the gate out of its housing, this end will have to be removed first. Its like having ABS in your car, you might not know how many times it saves you. To secure the PVC to the plywood a bead of gatss adhesive is used. After the construction adhesive has cured overnight the insides can be trimmed with a blast gates dust collection setup path trim bit in a router. Become A Member.

Admittedly, my sheet storage bin was overflowing with leftover plywood from various projects. These 16 blanks will each make up one half of a blast gate. I needed to cut a hole in the center of each of these pieces. I want the pipe to fit snugly into the hole with very little play.

These holes need to be very accurate and identical in all 16 pieces. I grabbed some scrap plywood and clamped one of the blanks to it. I then screwed three pieces around the edges of the blank and added a toggle clamp to hold the blanks in place. I drilled a pilot hole and then cut out the circle with a jigsaw. I kept away from the line and then finished the circle using a sanding drum on the drill press. I periodically checked the fit, but despite repeated checking made the hole a hair too big.

I added a layer of masking tape and the fit was perfect. The jig was ready for use. Using a pencil to mark the circle onto the blank.

I also numbered the edges so that the blank goes back into the jig the same way later. I rough cut out the circle with a jigsaw making sure to keep away from the line. After repeating 16 times, I was left with this stack. The next step in this project is to cut up some PVC. I bought some straight coupling pieces for this next part. I could have used a whole one on each side of the blast gate, but that would have been a little bulkier and would have doubled the cost of the parts.

Instead I cut the couplings in half. I was very careful to cut the coupling exactly in half and make sure the cut was square. PVC cuts very well on the bandsaw. This leaves a small ridge on the inside edge of the cut. I used a drum sanding bit in the drill press to remove the ridge. After sanding, one coupling yields two pieces.

I gave them each a quick sanding to smooth the edges. The coupling pieces fit over the sections of pipe. This leaves enough unused coupling to install them in the system later. I love this stuff. I buy it at Home Depot and it is considerably cheaper than liquid nails. I used construction adhesive to assemble each half of the blast gate.

I then applied some construction adhesive to the outside of the pipe. I then pushed on a piece of the coupling over the pipe. All 16 halves were assembled and set aside to dry.

Also I want the hole in the gate itself to be the same size as the inner diameter of the pipe not the outer. Since the jig is currently sized to route the outer diameter, I simply pushed a small piece of pipe into the jig. Now the router bit bearing will follow the inside of the pipe.

I also added a piece of PVC pipe inside the jig. The router bearing will now ride on this. I marked, drilled, jigsawed, and routed the holes in the gates in the same way I did earlier. I thinned the gates very, very slightly at the drum sander. I thinned the gates very slightly at the drum sander. I very lightly smoothed the inside of the blast gate halves on the combination sander. Applying glue to just one half of each side. Using a scrap the same width as the gates for assembly.

With all the glue applied and a piece of scrap in the middle, I brought the two halves together. I stood the blast gate on edge to line everything up and added some clamps.

After the glue was dry and the clamps removed. I cleaned up the edges at the combination sander. I cut a groove in two passes at the tablesaw. I also made and rounded over 8 stop blocks for the other end of the gate. All the Sapele parts hand sanded and ready for assembly.

Before starting with the assembly, I wanted to come up with a way of temporarily immobilizing the blast gate in the open position. This will allow me to install the handles so that when they are pushed all the way in, the holes in the gate are perfectly aligned with the dust collector pipe. To do this, I cut down some PVC pipe little by little, until it just fit inside another piece of pipe. I made sure I cut out just enough to fit snugly inside another piece of pipe. Slipping this piece of cut down pipe inside the blast gate in the open position will make sure the handle is installed in the exact right place.

The pipe holds the blast gate in the open position. I cut 16 pieces to fill the gaps in the handle. I also cut 16 pieces to fill the gas in the stop blocks. Then smooth the bead of construction adhesive. I used a relatively quick setting construction adhesive so I pretty much made an ugly mess here.

A slow setting adhesive would have been a better choice. But looks are relatively insignificant on this project. These will function just they way they were intended to function regardless of how ugly I made them. After the construction adhesive has cured overnight the insides can be trimmed with a flush trim bit in a router. I actually just clamped my laminate router into my sliding moxon vise and it worked great.

The remaining plywood squares need to be cut. Then Small Woodshop Dust Collection 300 the larger piece is centered on the blast gate and the smaller strips are glued and clamped in place on the sides. To give the Automatic Dust Collection Gates Key center section, or gate, a handle a dado is cut in the center of a scrap piece of wood.

The gate is then glued into place. Once the glue has setup on the two smaller strips the second half of the blast gate body is glued on. Because no shims are used in the construction of the blast gate body the thickness of the gate itself needs to be reduced.

The resulting fit should be smooth without any obstructions. You can also see in this picture that I added a painters tape flap that will cover the other side of the blast gate when suction is applied to the pipe.

I used something flexible such as tape so that any debris that may be in the gate path will be pushed out once the gate is closed. I hope you were able to find this shop project useful and are able to incorporate it into your dust collection setup.

Take care folks. Gr8 vid mate, always well explained. Keep up the good work, really enjoy your vids I learn something new from darn near everyone of them. Stay Safe! We also stock fabricated gates in and SS, carbon steel, galvanized and primer finish. Flex Hose and Clamps. The Blastgate Company stocks one of the largest inventories of hose for dust collection, material handling, chemical fumes, and high temperature venting for home, commercial, and industrial applications.

Spiral Pipe and Fittings. We also keep a vast supply of reducers, adapters, lateral tee's, wyes, caps, and much more. Clamp Together Pipe and Fittings.

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